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What about Legendary? I know they had them for 65 Sport Fury years ago.

The Parts book shows it as 2585532. It supersedes to PN: 3685603 You are better off rebuilding yours but get the Mopar front seal with the rubber on it or it will leak around the outside. Ask me how I know.

If your voltage goes to 16V, You definitely have a bad regulator. The alternator will normally generate around 17 volts. The regulator's job is to cut it down around 14.3 or 4. Get a different regulator and make sure the case ground is less than 1.2 ohm.

From all I have read about the 5.7 and the cam / lifter issue, oil changes are very important but even more important IMO, is not letting them idle for long periods of time. Cop cars seem to be in the top percentage of these failures and I think it is because of amount of time these cars spend...

I agree that if you have the room, a single 9" booster could give you 572psi of force. That plus a master cylinder with a 1" bore adds another 400 psi. Considering disc brakes need at least 900psi, you should be good. A single 8" booster gives you about 400 psi. That plus the 400 psi from the...

I would not use a single diaphragm booster with front discs. Disc's require about twice as much PSI as drums do. That is why Mopar upgraded to the dual diaphragm. You could get by with the single but you won't be able to lock the front brakes. There are tons of threads out there dealing with...

I was thinking it would take a little ingenuity to get that spring stretched to the arm without having the hinge clamped in a bench vise. Your tool looks to be the ticket. Thank you for sharing.

You are probably fine....I don't recall ever seeing smoke from a new regulator but it sounds like it is pretty common. You may want to consider installing one of these battery disconnects on your neg post. I have one on all of my collector cars. They are nice when you need to kill the current...

Are you are sure your case ground on the regulator is good? I would test it again. If you have a digital Ohm meter you should be able to see less than .5 ohms between the regulator case and neg post on the battery. You shouldn't be getting any smoke. It sounds like it was charging ok on your...

I looked at mine a little closer....Jengel is right. You are missing both the roller and the spring. At least it appears that way on your right door. (unless the roll pin is in there) If not you need the whole kit I referred you to. I would put the spring in first but not hook it on the end of...

This is a nice heater control panel for 72 & 73 Dodge and Plymouth C body cars with AC. It is complete with no missing or broken parts including the A/C switch, temp switch and blower switch. Also has the first section of vacuum hoses and clips. I believe it to be correct for 72 and 73 Dodge...

I have not done this but I think you should be able to install the spring without removing the hinge. It looks to me like you could reach in and hook the spring into the eye and then stretch it out and over the end of the lever. You may not need to replace the roller and roll pin. Maybe someone...

It is pretty obvious from your picture that the spring is not there. I sent you a link to the repair kit you need. Here is another pic of mine showing the spring.

Here is a repair kit for you. need one for each door. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166435285198?

Yup......You are missing the spring

If it pops up, it has a spring. If it don't pop up, the torsion spring is broken. This is what you need https://www.ebay.com/itm/256470974282?_

I'm not sure if 66 still used the rear hinged cover like my 65 or not. If so, I would bet your spring is broken. Here are a couple pics of my 65 console door. If you have the newer style with the hinge on the passenger side, I believe I have a spare one from a 1968

I agree that heat is what causes the problem. However, I believe the heat cause is electrical and is because of a piss-poor case ground. Regulators and ECU's need a good case ground. I always verify with my ohm meter. I require .5 ohms or less and not happy until .2 ohms. I bet yours reads much...

If you ask for a TS17 you should get the 250 ohm sender. I don't know the application of 500 ohm one. Think maybe Ford.

I have run into the same problem a while back. I believe the parts stores are giving out the wrong part number in many cases. What I recall is they have a couple of part numbers that cross over to the correct one. Although they look the same, one has a cold reading of 500 ohms and the other 250...