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(2.71?)

Which one actually fits your car the best?

Car looks good with the VN501s. You need another tag? Just curious, CBODY67

Not that I had ever worried about it, but all dual point units were the cast iron housing distributors and I wasn't aware the guts would transfer into an aluminum housing unit? Just curious, CBODY67

(Yep, Rim Blow)

Informative video! I was not aware of the "cut to fit" blade inserts. Now, how to they work with the air foil blades from the 1960s? Juar curious, CBODY67

A major thing which makes the handles different is the shape of the door panel they attach to and/or the black spacer/gasket that goes between them and the body. One handle can fit many IF the shape of the sheet metal contours they touch happen to be the same OR a specific spacer/gasket is used...

Interesting how subtle changes happened each year! The '69 and '70 front grilles would have looked good on an early '60s Buick Riviera, with the outboard park/turn signal lights. Take care, CBODY67

If you look at the OEM production items under a strong light, at an angle, you can see sand marks under the chrome. This is unique to all OEM handles. The repros are slicker without the sand marks, which makes them look "odd" to me, plus the color of the chrome and texture is different. I...

Due to the size of the rear doors, which E-bodies never had, I'm suspecting only C-body vehicles within a particular model year range. As in '65-'68, '69-'73', etc. Just speculating . . . CBODY67

By the time I bought my car used in 1975, with about 85K TX miles on it, the "switch" was very hard and took a lot of pressure to actuate. Then the issues with the switch self-activating in the summer, so I began looking for alternatives. I eventually ordered a new wheel from Chrysler, which...

I would say you "got lucky" with that piston/pin combination. My observation is that many aftermarket pistons are heavier than OEM items, as OEM items are the same weight all the way to .030+ sizes, whereas aftermarket pistons are not. This OEM weight allows rebuilders to replace just one...

To me, that looks just like the rim blow in my '70 Monaco, other than the name plate. That center section does not. CBODY67 ------------------- After consulting the Library at www.hamtramck-historical.com 1974 Chrysler Data Book, I discovered that the Rim Blow was still alive for the 1974...

The numbers listed above ^^^^^ are part numbers the glass companies use, which was what anybody used back then as the OEMs did not sell glass themselves. There might have been a real Chrysler part number, but it is pretty useless in a search, though, other than to cross-into the "glass part...

The whole Rim Blow issue was in its deserved grave at that point in time. Things went back to "conventional wisdom" in '74 with the center part of the steering wheel being the horn button. It will visibly move when the center section is pressed. IF that does not work, then check for the horn...

Mopar Performance used to sell and adapter tube to use a RB (longer shaft/housing) distributor on a B block. Spaced the distributor up a bit. Had the needed gaskets/seals on the ends. Worked good. Had a longer hold-down clamp/bolt for it, too. CBODY67

Just the compressor.

Should have low pressure switch on the receiver/drier, near the core support, rh side.

The only reason, that I know of, where an alternator was running the battery down, would be a defective diode in the alternator. Diodes designed to only keep voltage running "one direction" (to the output side of things). Other than that, a defective chime module can do the same, but I think...

Each model level of Chrysler had different side moldings. So model is important, not just body style. Enjoy! CBODY67