Axle removal advice

[rmcgee]

I'm beginning work on my 66 sports fury. I need to remove one of the rear axles to have new studs put in. How extensive is the axle removal process? Other than the retaining nuts, will I need a special tool to remove it? Also, the car has been sitting since 77. Would you recommend just pulling the whole rear end and having it gone through? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

 

[jake]

I would replace wheel bearings on both sides and new seals. If it has to come apart, you might as well go through it.
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...9-Rebuilding-rearend&highlight=Sure+grip+rear

 

[commando1]

It is not absolutely mandatory to pull the axle to replace studs.
They can be punched out with a heavy sledge hammer.

 

[bluefury361]

I'm beginning work on my 66 sports fury. I need to remove one of the rear axles to have new studs put in.QUOTE]

:sSig_greetingsthor: .........
First thing..... It's a " Sport Fury", not a sports fury.

While the studs are easy to remove with the axle in the car, they are a lot tougher to install that way.
Pulling the axle is an easy task, You access the retaining nuts through the hole in the flange, and just slide the axle out. (You might want to knock the old stud(s) out first). Best to press the new studs in but a hammer and drift will work. With the axle out, now is a good time to inspect the bearings, If they look good add a little bearing grease and reinstall.
If replacing bearings a lot depends on how you intend to use the car. straight line driving ... use the green bearings, For daily driving the original tapered bearings are the better choice.
Top off, or drain and refil the diff with gear lube, (If it's a sure grip be sure to use the correct lube or a friction additive).

You may or may not be aware of the fact that Mopars up to 1972 used reverse threaded studs on the left side. Look for the (L) on the end of the stud.

It's an easy and fun project, good luck.

 

[RemCharger]

It is not absolutely mandatory to pull the axle to replace studs.
They can be punched out with a heavy sledge hammer.

I agree, or even a strong air hammer is easier. Also to install, you can use a larger nut around the stud as a spacer, and pull them in with a wheel nut (I use an impact gun). With the right tools could be done in 5-10 mins

 

[Speed_Kills96]

Use a balljoint removal tool and a impact gun to press out the studs. There is absolutely no reson to pull the axles out, unless there is a leaky axle seal. Dont make more work for yourself.

 

[bluefury361]

Use a balljoint removal tool and a impact gun to press out the studs. There is absolutely no reson to pull the axles out, unless there is a leaky axle seal. Dont make more work for yourself.

Not a wise idea to use the "nut and spacer" method to "pull" the new studs into the axle. The torque needed to seat the new studs will put excessive force on the fine threads of the stud and likely damage/distort them. Once the wheel and lug nut are installed the torque readings will be false.
An axle can be removed with a ratchet & socket in less then five minutes. Not what I call "extra work". Plus you get the piece of mind gained by inspecting the almost 30 year old bearings.

 

[bluefury361]

Air tools are production tools, or used when flat rate/time is a factor.
Using air tools on old cars can cause more damage by breaking parts or stripping threads due to excessive heat. If the parts being removed are to be replaced, fine. Not always the case though.
If you insist on using a air impact to reassemble then it is wise to test the torque applied by your particular tool with a torque wrench. Every fastener on a vehicle has a torque specification. Over tightening can and will break, strip and/or warp a component.

 

[Speed_Kills96]

What i meant is using the impact on the balljoint removal tool. Not on the stud.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Use some thin cardboard/thick paper inside seal that stays in the housing when the splines come through to avoid damage.

 

[RemCharger]

Air tools are production tools, or used when flat rate/time is a factor.
Using air tools on old cars can cause more damage by breaking parts or stripping threads due to excessive heat. If the parts being removed are to be replaced, fine. Not always the case though.
If you insist on using a air impact to reassemble then it is wise to test the torque applied by your particular tool with a torque wrench. Every fastener on a vehicle has a torque specification. Over tightening can and will break, strip and/or warp a component.

Excellent warnings. One "can" use a torque wrench when pulling the studs in if they are inexperienced with air tools, or cannot determine when the stud is fully seated.

 

[commando1]

Its seated when I think it's seated.