Interchangeable window parts

[SuperDave]

Okay, I'm about to bite the bullet big time, interior overhaul: sound system (90% purchased, need grommets & wires), aftermarket gauges (purchased), carpet & dead-liner insulation (purchased), seat covers & extra material for door skins ($900 saved back, another $100 for taxes & shipping). I'm also wanting power windows and locks. There's a 4 door kit for locks, includes a wireless remote for under $100 that I like. Power windows: Amazon has a 2door conversion kit that slips a gear drive over the manual knob "stud" to drive the original crank regulator, but my windows are kinda stiff, might be too much to ask of a cheap Chinese kit to be reliable. Reviews are a mixed bag of +'s & -'s.

Now I did spot a set of 69 Imperial power regulators on eBay, my question for the forum is: WILL THEY FIT A 73 NEWPORT??? Both are 4 doors. I don't have access to a Hollinder interchange book, my friend who had a junkyard (& had said book) retired & sold off everything, it's now a storage yard. They're both fusie C-bodies.

New window drive motors are available at Rock Auto, and Amazon lists crank "switches" that I can mount my crank handles onto to make it all look original. There are even modules for controlling 2 windows from one switch, and relay kits that I can combine to control all 4 windows from a single switch on the driver's door, just order a 2nd module for the back and a toggle/rocker switch.

The Amazon kit is cheaper, but you get what you pay for. Original equipment ($500+) looks more desirable regarding longevity, reliability and "correctness", IF it'll fit.

Will they fit???

 

[Fishfan]

I personally would go with Amazon. I've modified so many things in my car that "correctness" is not my priority. Amazon has a very flexible return policy if you don't like what you receive or if it doesn't work right. Just photograph everything as you unbox so you can put it all back in the way it came, in case you need to return for fit or any other reason.

 

[SuperDave]

@Fishfan , the Amazon option is cheaper, several hundred worth. But according to the reviews, the "adapter" that connects to the crank stub is driven by a cogged cable/belt and can strip or even break. I'm thinking it could be due to stiff manual regulators binding.
Here's one such example:

I've given it some thought, many of the older cars, fusies especially, suffer from old grease that the guide track the regulator slides on. Many times I've looked inside a door and saw the grease congealed into wax, probably contaminated with dirt over the years. A lack of greasy lube in the gears could contribute also. I've half a mind to remove the door cards, remove the manual regulators and effect a thorough cleaning and lube to try to restore easy function. If I can get the crank to move it up & down without fighting or binding, the conversion kit may work out well.

Here's a typical installation in a Chevy truck:

As you see, the crank drive is separate from the motor, allowing one to tuck it away in an open void or pocket of the door. The kit comes with a plug to hide the crank adapter in the door card crank hole, and an optional Tee handle to manually open or close the window in the event of motor/belt failure. My concern is if the door card would fit over the adapter without creating a bulge.

A couple years back I bought 2 sets of hot rod style window cranks. They match my Grant GT steering wheel. But come to find out they don't fit a Chrysler stud, only GM & Ford's. I still have them.

Then I saw these. Together I could have power windows WITH hot rod "switches" to make it customized and still retain the manual look.

They're not cheap. $125 each for Amazon knock offs or $180+ from the "authentic" manufacturer. The reviews on Amazon aren't nice, they're flimsy and can present issues, one reviewer stated to spend a little more and buy the good ones.

If I want to mount the crank switches in the original crank holes, the Amazon power kit gets in the way. And they may not be as reliable as a factory retrofit with dedicated Mopar regulators. I've been digging around on the interwebs since my original post, it seems most fusie C-bodies do have some interchangeability, but the key is to use dedicated 4 door sedan parts with vent windows to match my own. Hollander's website, along with Carpart & Pick-N-Pull list a handful of regulators scattered across junkyards in the USA. Stitching together a wiring harness with relays, a circuit breaker and bulkhead boot for the doors is within my skill set. Nothing I haven't done before. It's the expense that makes me balk. This conversion could easily cost me a grand or more. Hell, the desired switches alone are over $500.

Looks like I'll be winding my windows by hand for a little while longer until I save up some more. After Xmas anyways.