At least one does!Just goes to show you.. Some peeps actually read your posts....
Or maybe some people read my posts for the articles, while others look at the pics? (maybe that is why @ceebuddy was asking for centerfold pics
)
Introducing a 1970 300 TNT convertible
- Thread starter ayilar
- Start date
Or maybe some people read my posts for the articles, while others look at the pics? (maybe that is why @ceebuddy was asking for centerfold pics
)
A bit of research this weekend, and help from a couple of members, has allowed me to track down 18 U-code 1970 300 'verts still on the road, plus one that is rotting away (CM27U0C182955). AFAIK, that means one seventh of the total 300 TNT production is still on the road! And, I am sure there are more out there.
The list of current and past owners on FCBO includes (but may not be limited to) @70 Droptop, @antonellomopar, @boostedvan, @challenger, @dh23t (your inbox is full), @GT dave (your inbox is full as well), @marko, @Tobias74, and @saforwardlook. I am the latest addition.
@c-barge, @sauterd, @fc7_plumcrazy, @ceebuddy (and everyone else) -- are you aware of any member(s) whom I've missed?
The list of current and past owners on FCBO includes (but may not be limited to) @70 Droptop, @antonellomopar, @boostedvan, @challenger, @dh23t (your inbox is full), @GT dave (your inbox is full as well), @marko, @Tobias74, and @saforwardlook. I am the latest addition.
@c-barge, @sauterd, @fc7_plumcrazy, @ceebuddy (and everyone else) -- are you aware of any member(s) whom I've missed?
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
I'm curious, where does the number 100 TNT '70 300 convertibles come from?
Thank you -- typo on my part. The figure I have is 135 (in all likelihood) in total for the US and Canadian market. I have edited the post, glad you caught it.
Imps Rule
New Member
Rustyrodknocker
Senior Member
Wow a lot can happen if you don't open the Fuselage forum for a week!
I can't believe I missed this somehow. Another stellar car @ayilar ! You are probably thinking about moving out that ol Buttercup to make room for the growing vert collection!! Ha!
I can't believe I missed this somehow. Another stellar car @ayilar ! You are probably thinking about moving out that ol Buttercup to make room for the growing vert collection!! Ha!
Thanks! Buttercup is coming along nicely — @71Polara383 has finished the metal work on the top, primer is on, and she’ll have her top painted white before receiving a brand new SMS gold vinyl top. I hope she’ll be at the Illinois River Run on May 2nd!
Time for an update. After some fettling in Maryland, the TNT is now ready to move to the Midwest where @david hill will be bringing her back to being a clean, solid driver.
On @Ripinator's recommendation, I had the car picked up from the seller's house three weeks ago for a "gentle waking up" at a local shop whose owner knows how to deal with old cars (as well as new ones) and has helped him in the past. Lots of good things have come out of my taking Rip's advice:
1. The FB ad stated that the car had not run for 35 years, even though the stickers on the car are from 2001. The seller repeated the "35 years" number to Rip's mechanic, so he was very careful in getting the engine to turn and then to run. The engine turned (bet #1 won), but the carb was stuck. It is now unstuck and, after an oil change + oil and gas filter changes + new spark plugs (provided by the seller), the engine runs quite smoothly. Rip convinced me to start the 440HP this morning, when he and I went to see the car, and I did so -- very nice start and sound! I took a video, but it is too large for posting, so the following pic will have to do:
--> as one can see in the above picture, the heater control valve is correct for the car but clearly leaked in the past. Following the advice I received from @saforwardlook two years ago for Medina (my 1971 T-code Monaco), I will not be replacing it with a NOS HCV (though I do have one). Instead, for improved reliability, I bought this afternoon an Everco H1949 all-metal valve that should last for a long time (unlike the originals, which are known to start leaking after a couple of years or do). I found one on eBay at $69 including S&H and jumped on it (the next cheapest is still available but over $100).
2. The car brakes properly. The left front bleeder is messed up and needs fixing , but for the short drive from the transport drop-off to David's shop, that's not gonna be a problem (David will give the brakes a full OEM-correct go-over -- lines, valves, master cylinder, booster, ...). On the advice of @71Polara383, the hand brake will remain untried till the car is in David's hands.
3. As I knew, the radiator leaks. For the sake of expediency, I bought a Spectra Premium CU332 -- same one that @Trace 300 Hurst recommended to me last year and that I bought for Snow White, my N-code 1970 Polara 'vert. Once the car is in David's hands and he gets a good look at the car, we shall decide on whether to get the original radiator recored, keep the Spectra, or pay through the nose for an OEM repro. Rip's mechanic told me to tell David to add some water for the short drive from the transport drop-off to his place.
4. The seller had, way back when he decided to store the car (either 35 or 20 years ago), cleaned the tank and sealed it. Well, it turns out that the tank is now full of "undefined crap" -- quite possibly the remnants of the material that he used to seal the tank. In any event, since a Canadian company (Spectra Premium) makes reproduction tanks, I have bought one -- as well as new straps, grommet, and pad (thanks to @1970FuryConv for posting his tank experience).
--> 3&4: On a side note, Spectra parts for C-bodies are almost impossible to find at the moment. Except for Amazon, which had three left, I could not find the Spectra Premium CU332 radiator in stock at any of the places that carried it last year (Summit, Rock Auto, etc.). The Spectra Premium CR20B gas tank was out of stock everywhere. I found a CR20C at Van's -- it is "almost but not 100% correct" (4-vent tank, so I bought two nipples to cap the extra vents). This said, I have also ordered from Summit another CU332 rad and a 100% correct CR20B 2-vent tank. If I end up not needing those extra parts, I may either keep them in stock for later use or sell them here to help someone who needs them.
5. My TNT got caught outside by a heavy downpour before being brought inside for fettling, two weekends ago. While a waterproofing test was NOT my plan, from lemons I got tasty lemonade: the good news is that the TNT does not take any water. Zero, zip. Completely dry! Still, it is now properly covered (with the cover recommended three years ago by @1978 NYB).
Here are a few pics before Rip helped me put the cover on, and after. Looks like the metal is very straight and the paint should buff out nicely.
On @Ripinator's recommendation, I had the car picked up from the seller's house three weeks ago for a "gentle waking up" at a local shop whose owner knows how to deal with old cars (as well as new ones) and has helped him in the past. Lots of good things have come out of my taking Rip's advice:
1. The FB ad stated that the car had not run for 35 years, even though the stickers on the car are from 2001. The seller repeated the "35 years" number to Rip's mechanic, so he was very careful in getting the engine to turn and then to run. The engine turned (bet #1 won), but the carb was stuck. It is now unstuck and, after an oil change + oil and gas filter changes + new spark plugs (provided by the seller), the engine runs quite smoothly. Rip convinced me to start the 440HP this morning, when he and I went to see the car, and I did so -- very nice start and sound! I took a video, but it is too large for posting, so the following pic will have to do:
--> as one can see in the above picture, the heater control valve is correct for the car but clearly leaked in the past. Following the advice I received from @saforwardlook two years ago for Medina (my 1971 T-code Monaco), I will not be replacing it with a NOS HCV (though I do have one). Instead, for improved reliability, I bought this afternoon an Everco H1949 all-metal valve that should last for a long time (unlike the originals, which are known to start leaking after a couple of years or do). I found one on eBay at $69 including S&H and jumped on it (the next cheapest is still available but over $100).
2. The car brakes properly. The left front bleeder is messed up and needs fixing , but for the short drive from the transport drop-off to David's shop, that's not gonna be a problem (David will give the brakes a full OEM-correct go-over -- lines, valves, master cylinder, booster, ...). On the advice of @71Polara383, the hand brake will remain untried till the car is in David's hands.
3. As I knew, the radiator leaks. For the sake of expediency, I bought a Spectra Premium CU332 -- same one that @Trace 300 Hurst recommended to me last year and that I bought for Snow White, my N-code 1970 Polara 'vert. Once the car is in David's hands and he gets a good look at the car, we shall decide on whether to get the original radiator recored, keep the Spectra, or pay through the nose for an OEM repro. Rip's mechanic told me to tell David to add some water for the short drive from the transport drop-off to his place.
4. The seller had, way back when he decided to store the car (either 35 or 20 years ago), cleaned the tank and sealed it. Well, it turns out that the tank is now full of "undefined crap" -- quite possibly the remnants of the material that he used to seal the tank. In any event, since a Canadian company (Spectra Premium) makes reproduction tanks, I have bought one -- as well as new straps, grommet, and pad (thanks to @1970FuryConv for posting his tank experience).
--> 3&4: On a side note, Spectra parts for C-bodies are almost impossible to find at the moment. Except for Amazon, which had three left, I could not find the Spectra Premium CU332 radiator in stock at any of the places that carried it last year (Summit, Rock Auto, etc.). The Spectra Premium CR20B gas tank was out of stock everywhere. I found a CR20C at Van's -- it is "almost but not 100% correct" (4-vent tank, so I bought two nipples to cap the extra vents). This said, I have also ordered from Summit another CU332 rad and a 100% correct CR20B 2-vent tank. If I end up not needing those extra parts, I may either keep them in stock for later use or sell them here to help someone who needs them.
5. My TNT got caught outside by a heavy downpour before being brought inside for fettling, two weekends ago. While a waterproofing test was NOT my plan, from lemons I got tasty lemonade: the good news is that the TNT does not take any water. Zero, zip. Completely dry! Still, it is now properly covered (with the cover recommended three years ago by @1978 NYB).
Here are a few pics before Rip helped me put the cover on, and after. Looks like the metal is very straight and the paint should buff out nicely.
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TX9
Member
Is that a BUDGE car cover?! If so, what # cover fits a 20’ FUSELAGE?!
Nope, custom made for Poppy, my 1970 Polara ‘vert — Ironshield from Carscover.com:
CarsCover.com: Online Shopping for Covers & more
Poppy is stored indoors and won’t be going to Carlisle this year (I’ll take another car there), so she temporarily agreed to swap her waterproof and wind resistant cover for the interior cover that the seller included when I got her TNT cousin. The Ironshield fits tightly at the corners on the TNT with lots of extra material and creases on the top, but that is not the case on Poppy (good since it’s a custom cover!) — clearly the cars are not the same.
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If you are interested in a same quality cover as that one in ayilar post check out the Car Cover Company. that cover is a 5 layer which is what I use. There are many different many Cover suppliers doing rebranding covers made by the same company. Do your research as prices can vary significantly. I found the cover for my 69 300 vert by using Newport vert as my car model. If you buy chance use 300 in your search, you may get a cover for a late model 300. It happen to me.
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Just curious whether that Ironshield car cover breathes OK, i.e. it lets any water that has condensed under it escape when the weather is dry again?
Can’t really answer. There are two vents, one up front and one in back. I’ve used this cover almost exclusively inside, in a garage where humidity has not been an issue at all. I think Poppy’s cover has seen rain only twice in three years, and both times it was just overnight — I mopped off whatever water was left on the cover outside in the morning, and found the car bone dry underneath.
I have another one like it for Medina, that has been used similarly. I’ll let @71Polara383 chime in.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
You're welcome.
Awesome condition for sitting 35 years!
Awesome condition for sitting 35 years!
Work is progressing on the TNT, thanks to @david hill.
In May, he installed a Carter M4845 fuel pump that I bought from Summit + the matching pump-to-carb 2-pc DBE6805 fuel lines that I ordered directly from Inline Tube as recommended by @Trace 300 Hurst. For folks interested, @Trace 300 Hurst provided vendor links as well as detailed, illustrated instructions in this thread. David had to modify one of the lines (unlike Trace when he did his own 300 Hurst: the lines were just right), but all went well and the system looks OEM. For the carb, at David's request, I bought a Standard Motor Products 446B carb rebuild kit.
For good measure, I also bought from Summit a Stant 13478 180-degree thermostat and matching 27140 gasket, a Prothane 4-1603-BL transmission mount, and three Continental Elite V-belts (the successors to the Goodyear Gatorback): one 15371 (36.5") and two 15595 (59"). For the intermediate belt, David measured the one in my car at 42.5" and none of the lengths on Summit was a great fit, so we decided to buy at a local store.
I also bought Moog K7293 upper control arm bump stops from Summit, as well as K772 lower ball joints from Rock Auto, and BJ10220 lower right and BJ10221 lower left ball joints from PST. My intention had been to use Moog K7003 and K7005 LBJs, but I could not get them early enough due to my work travel constraints and so I ordered the PST alternatives online and had them delivered to David.
For June, we agreed that I would now order the following parts, which are the same that @71Polara383 and I ordered in 2019 for, and have since had very good experience on, Medina (my 1971 T-code Monaco). I ordered from CarID this time around, because they were the only ones carrying all of the parts I wanted. It is frustrating that Summit Racing does not carry Gates hoses or pumps, and that their search engine does not lead one to the KYB shocks even though they carry them (the same issue holds for Rock Auto, whose search engine shows the correct KYB shocks for a 1970 Polara but only the fronts for a 1970 Chrysler
). Too bad for Summit and RA -- as a result of their not carrying Gates at this time, both companies lost this order and thus several hundred dollars in sales:
Gates engine coolant molded radiator hoses (20633 lower / 20630 upper)
Gates 42032 engine coolant water pump
Cloyes C-3044 double-row timing set
Fel-Pro TCS124602 timing cover gasket set
Finally, I also ordered KYB Gas-A-Just KG4507 front and KG5512 rear shocks for my and David's 300 'verts. The KYBs offer a very nice blend of handling and smoothness, and so I continue buying them for my cars.
Next on my list is a new dizzy!
PS: parts availability/delivery continues to be an issue. The Gates radiator hoses have been out of stock at I ordered a Spectra Premium CU332 from Amazon, they never delivered (I got a refund a month after ordering); I ordered one from Summit, they kept pushing back the delivery date; so I ended up ordering from eBay (typically my least favorite method), and the part was delivered right away as promised. Strange times.
In May, he installed a Carter M4845 fuel pump that I bought from Summit + the matching pump-to-carb 2-pc DBE6805 fuel lines that I ordered directly from Inline Tube as recommended by @Trace 300 Hurst. For folks interested, @Trace 300 Hurst provided vendor links as well as detailed, illustrated instructions in this thread. David had to modify one of the lines (unlike Trace when he did his own 300 Hurst: the lines were just right), but all went well and the system looks OEM. For the carb, at David's request, I bought a Standard Motor Products 446B carb rebuild kit.
For good measure, I also bought from Summit a Stant 13478 180-degree thermostat and matching 27140 gasket, a Prothane 4-1603-BL transmission mount, and three Continental Elite V-belts (the successors to the Goodyear Gatorback): one 15371 (36.5") and two 15595 (59"). For the intermediate belt, David measured the one in my car at 42.5" and none of the lengths on Summit was a great fit, so we decided to buy at a local store.
I also bought Moog K7293 upper control arm bump stops from Summit, as well as K772 lower ball joints from Rock Auto, and BJ10220 lower right and BJ10221 lower left ball joints from PST. My intention had been to use Moog K7003 and K7005 LBJs, but I could not get them early enough due to my work travel constraints and so I ordered the PST alternatives online and had them delivered to David.
For June, we agreed that I would now order the following parts, which are the same that @71Polara383 and I ordered in 2019 for, and have since had very good experience on, Medina (my 1971 T-code Monaco). I ordered from CarID this time around, because they were the only ones carrying all of the parts I wanted. It is frustrating that Summit Racing does not carry Gates hoses or pumps, and that their search engine does not lead one to the KYB shocks even though they carry them (the same issue holds for Rock Auto, whose search engine shows the correct KYB shocks for a 1970 Polara but only the fronts for a 1970 Chrysler
). Too bad for Summit and RA -- as a result of their not carrying Gates at this time, both companies lost this order and thus several hundred dollars in sales:Gates engine coolant molded radiator hoses (20633 lower / 20630 upper)
Gates 42032 engine coolant water pump
Cloyes C-3044 double-row timing set
Fel-Pro TCS124602 timing cover gasket set
Finally, I also ordered KYB Gas-A-Just KG4507 front and KG5512 rear shocks for my and David's 300 'verts. The KYBs offer a very nice blend of handling and smoothness, and so I continue buying them for my cars.
Next on my list is a new dizzy!
PS: parts availability/delivery continues to be an issue. The Gates radiator hoses have been out of stock at I ordered a Spectra Premium CU332 from Amazon, they never delivered (I got a refund a month after ordering); I ordered one from Summit, they kept pushing back the delivery date; so I ended up ordering from eBay (typically my least favorite method), and the part was delivered right away as promised. Strange times.
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I have kept updates few and far between. Here is the latest. The fuel tank is in w/ a new sending unit. I confirmed prior to installation that the send does work and register from F-to-E. Aftermarket sending units known for inaccuracy, this one is good to go. The fuel pump was operating erratically, testing revealed inconsistent vac. readings. I am surprised it drove home. Time for a new fuel pump The carb was amazingly complete w/ a sticking choke and lots of varnish buildup w/air bleads and supply passages, heavy varnish, plugged check balls and stuck accelerator pump discharge needle. It is clearly obvious this carb was rebuilt as the air horn gasket was identical to the one removed during the cleaning and reassembly matched the new one. Preliminary adj. were made given they were so far off. The timing chain had 18 degree of chain slop, Given this is a untouched 440 w/ 140,000 its time for a timing chain set replacement and check for nylon gear cracking and or missing teeth. Currently pulling the radiator and water pump housing. More updates to come.
Turns out the Gates engine upper radiator hoses (20630) that I got from CarID does not fit the TNT. See the photos @david hill sent to me, showing the Gates (?) atop the original.
As David noted, "the curving will put too much stress on the upper radiator inlet (....) because of the way the upper radiator hose angles towards the upper radiator nipple it will put some torsional stress where it attaches to the radiator. With vibration engine twist and shift it will eventually break down and possibly damage the radiator because it's simply too short."
"If you look closely they also did not cut the hose straight causing yet another fitment issue."
The Goodyear 60664 hose that was on the car matches exactly what is on David's 1969.
I have therefore ordered instead a Continental Elite 60664 molded hose from Rock Auto. Here is a photo from RA:
That Continental 60664 hose clearly looks different from the Gates 20630, and its part number (60664) matches that on the Goodyear hose that came with my own TNT:
PS: I am puzzled, as the 20630 worked well on Medina, my 1971 T-code Monaco (also with A/C)
. David is bringing the Gates hose to the Union, IL Midwest C-body show so that we can compare the CarID-sourced Gates hose to the one I got 2 years ago for Medina.
As David noted, "the curving will put too much stress on the upper radiator inlet (....) because of the way the upper radiator hose angles towards the upper radiator nipple it will put some torsional stress where it attaches to the radiator. With vibration engine twist and shift it will eventually break down and possibly damage the radiator because it's simply too short."
"If you look closely they also did not cut the hose straight causing yet another fitment issue."
The Goodyear 60664 hose that was on the car matches exactly what is on David's 1969.
I have therefore ordered instead a Continental Elite 60664 molded hose from Rock Auto. Here is a photo from RA:
That Continental 60664 hose clearly looks different from the Gates 20630, and its part number (60664) matches that on the Goodyear hose that came with my own TNT:
PS: I am puzzled, as the 20630 worked well on Medina, my 1971 T-code Monaco (also with A/C)
. David is bringing the Gates hose to the Union, IL Midwest C-body show so that we can compare the CarID-sourced Gates hose to the one I got 2 years ago for Medina.Similar threads
