Tapered axle drum removalbut not the hub

[gashog bll]

I have a 1960 belevedere with tapered axle 8.75. Question ...I am NOT gonna use the swedge style drums but 65 & newer style. Can I cut off the studs grind it deep enough for the drum to fall off. then take a cut off wheel n cut the stud flush at the hub. Press out the old studs & install the correct .633 new studs with a backwards lug nut. I do not really want to remove the hubs, as I see no reason to. Or do I have to cut the swedge off 1st with a drill. No machine shop has experience in champ ill with this

 

[57fury440]

I don't think that will work. Doesn't your car have lug bolts and not studs that hold the wheels on? What are you trying to accomplish. If you want to get rid of the old style rear, I would replace it with one from a newer Mopar. They come in quite a few different width sizes and you should be able to get one to fit.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Not sure what your reasoning is but I don't think the backing plate will allow a newer style drum. You will more than likely need to swap the backing plate along with the shoes and hardware from the newer style also.

 

[57fury440]

It's been a while since I worked on the old tapered axles but I don't think any of it interchanges with the newer style rears. Maybe someone here that knows more about them will chime in.

 

[446acuda]

I have a 1960 belevedere with tapered axle 8.75. Question ...I am NOT gonna use the swedge style drums but 65 & newer style. Can I cut off the studs grind it deep enough for the drum to fall off. then take a cut off wheel n cut the stud flush at the hub. Press out the old studs & install the correct .633 new studs with a backwards lug nut. I do not really want to remove the hubs, as I see no reason to. Or do I have to cut the swedge off 1st with a drill. No machine shop has experience in champ ill with this

I did what exactly what you said on a '62 Belvedere. Cut the stud off flush and use an angle grinder to grind the swedge area so that the drum can be removed. After the drum is off, you can easily access the axle retainer nuts so that you can pull the axle and knock the old studs out and new ones in. I used a ford stud since I thought that part of the shank might interfere with the '65-later drum

 

[Lefty71]

Here's some info that may help.... Also, there are some write ups regarding this conversion over at FBBO. You may want to search there. For the swedge cutting, I used a tiny holesaw just big enough to slide over the existing studs....didnt have to cut or grind the studs at all otherwise. You WILL have to pull the hub to save it and do the job properly.

Mopar Tapered Axle Brakes

I tried following this procedure for a Belvedere, but I had some trouble finding just the right wheel studs to use....the NAPA ones mentioned have apparantly evolved somewhat and didnt work for me.... I found some later model Ford studs by Dorman IIRC that worked perfectly... I'll see if I can dig out the info if you need it.

HTH, Lefty71

 

[gashog bll]

I don't think that will work. Doesn't your car have lug bolts and not studs that hold the wheels on? What are you trying to accomplish. If you want to get rid of the old style rear, I would replace it with one from a newer Mopar. They come in quite a few different width sizes and you should be able to get one to fit.

Margaret drums are swedged together. All I wanna do is
Remove the drums to scrap, install new stud. All without removing the hubs

 

[Lefty71]

All without removing the hubs

From what I've read, you'll damage the hubs.... Hard to find for most of us, you better have a spare set on hand if your gonna try it that way. (my two cents). Best to slowly press the studs out, and press the new ones in.

 

[57fury440]

Wow, That looks like a nice conversion. I figured someone with a little more knowledge on the subject would help. I ended up changing my whole rear to a newer one because I used to drag race the car. I would change gears when I ran the car at 1/4 mile tracks and 1/8 mile tracks and it was easier without using a puller.

 

[TerryM]

65 Fury diff will slip straight in. I have done the conversion in my 60 dodge and also a 58 plymouth. I spent 20 years driving with a tapered axle diff and although was ok, there's less brake issues with the later set up. The purists will say keep it original and everyone has an opinion, but for me I used mine as a daily for over 20 years and am glad I changed out the diff.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I did what exactly what you said on a '62 Belvedere. Cut the stud off flush and use an angle grinder to grind the swedge area so that the drum can be removed. After the drum is off, you can easily access the axle retainer nuts so that you can pull the axle and knock the old studs out and new ones in. I used a ford stud since I thought that part of the shank might interfere with the '65-later drum

You were able to get a 65-later drum to fit? I tried to slip a 65 Fury drum on my 60 Dart and the backing plate would not allow it. The outer lip on the 65 drum was not recessed like the 60 drum.

 

[446acuda]

You were able to get a 65-later drum to fit? I tried to slip a 65 Fury drum on my 60 Dart and the backing plate would not allow it. The outer lip on the 65 drum was not recessed like the 60 drum.

Yes, I was working on a '62 B body Belvedere. I should have made that clear. I'm not familiar with early C body brake interchanges.
The good thing is that there are several easy to find 4.5" bolt drum/backing plates on '65-later truck/van('84-earlier 2WD) and cars with 8.75, 9.25 and 8.25 rearends. Not a bad route to go if the original rearend is in good condition.

 

[bluefury361]

I swapped a complete drum to drum 8 3/4 axle out of a 68 Chrysler Newport into my 61 Fury.
Same ratio, drive shaft bolted in, no mods needed, straight up swap.
Easy and inexpensive to locate one.