Recent content by edbods

yeah see i'm still a lanky nerd, so i have to work smarter rather than harder. unfortunately for me the smarts department has been going through a bit of a downturn in recent times. I do have a drum brake tool set, they were a fairly cheap set and they work well enough, but I was just wondering...

Anyone have a tip or trick for removing drum brake springs with just basic tools, not the actual spring removal tool? I know the trick to get them back on, that involves using a flat blade driver and it's actually very satisfying to do, but so far I've not been able to take the springs off...

That's going on someone's signature now. Lol

"That's a neat Fur-wait what...the steering wheel on the other side...? And it's got a Monaco dash??" Original it seems, judging by pics of other same year models I've seen

Finally posting a pic of mine...the paint is good from 30 feet away, lol. There's rust here and there, and surface rust all underneath. The front and rear windscreens also leak :D Mechanically though, it's in tip-top shape. Almost all the brake lines have been replaced, save for the long one...

Yeah that's the one. I think they're all just different brands for the same thing. It never gets old seeing people's reactions when they notice how freezing the AC is and what I filled it up with. Once had my dad riding shotgun on a 100F day and he turned off the AC after 10 mins because it got...

interesting. Wherever I look it seems to be 75-85% charge for an R134a retrofit. HC12/HC12a (really just a marketing name) is just a mix of typically 60% propane (R290) and 40% isobutane (R600a). The isobutane lowers the head pressures. For an R12 system you only need 50% of the original charge...

Wait what? I thought going R12 > R134a is 80% of the R12 charge weight. It will never be as good as the R12 though which is why I'm a sucker for HC12. From personal experience it's just as good as, if not better than R12, and your HVAC system will last much longer because it runs at lower...

wonder if it's because they're using r134a. fill it up with hc-12a and i bet you it'll be way cooler.

That's how I've been doing it - for my 383 I wedge it between the block and the alternator and push the alternator out/up as much as I can while I tighten up the bolt.

I have a Group 27 680 CCA battery...it starts my 383 up just fine. Although it doesn't get to 0°F here.

How does that alternator tool hold the alternator? Does the end with the longer tip hook into the cooling holes/slots? Would be very nice to have but I've been getting by so far with a crowbar for both that and the power steering pump. Found an ebay listing for the tool which had a picture...

I wonder if they've ever thought about looking for a wrecked Dodge Phoenix of the same year and using the dash parts to convert it to RHD. Then again, the steering box would be a problem, since they were mounted closer to the firewall and everything steering related, sans the outer tie rods, was...

I think these have been around for a while; I bought my first deflecting beam on Gumtree second-hand and it looked like it was made in the 80s or so. Sold it and got this one because I got sick of the non-ratcheting head. You guys also have them but they don't seem to be as popular, Powerbuilt...

Can confirm, took about 3 months for mine. Was an agonising wait only alleviated by the fact that I had other stuff on the car I could work on at the same time. I'm probably just being impatient though...good things take time.