Recent content by edbods

Was the radiator replaced? If not it might be clogged. Mine will heat up on the highway and puke coolant. On surface streets it's fine, still bubbles a bit of coolant but not as much. But I've still got the factory radiator and I strongly suspect it's clogged as someone else mentioned getting...

I forget that autos used to be the premium option. Now it's the other way around...I miss having a manual. Maybe if I somehow ever manage to blow up my 727 I'll drop in a TKX.

I do have an electric choke so not too much of a concern there. Intending on getting a 3 pin oil pressure switch so I can have it only run when the oil pressure light is off.

If it's like my 67 383, it should be at the back of the engine at the top of the gearbox bell housing. There may be a plugged port next to it if you need to use that for something else.

In a way wouldn't a restricted heat crossover also do what a smaller hole in the valley pan gasket as well? My intake is definitely a new aluminum one though.

Thanks yet again guys! Always learning something here. I think for now I'll just hold the throttle slightly open on a hot start and then see if I want to get the blockoff valley pan and drill holes in it. When I get around to it, I'll also post screenshots of my tuning logs - it's cool being...

Ahhh right never knew that, thanks!

Wouldn't neutral be the same as park though? RPM would still idle higher than while in gear.

I wish I wrote it down somewhere when I set it, it was either 10 or 12.5 BTDC

It's a 1967 383. Stock pistons. Also come to think of it, I think I should've adjusted the idle speed while the car was in drive rather than park, because it definitely started struggling when I put it in gear.

Thanks guys. I thought that especially with the temps we see here since we never see snow that the crossover wasn't really needed. Also CBODY67 I think your 2nd reply got cut off at the end. Although I do see quite a few people have blocked their crossover without further problems with cold...

At the moment the carb cheater has the auto tune function (the thing that actually adjusts extra incoming air) turned off so it's not adding extra air, only picking up readings from the engine. The way it's meant to be used is you first use it to tune your carb with better precision than hearing...

Alright. I've had the AVS2 on for a while now and the first time I did it quick and dirty by hearing when I felt it sounded right. Seemed to go great. Then I got a new exhaust, and started messing around with it after installing the carb cheater to see the vacuum and AFRs. But if I set the AVS2...

Looks par for the course. This was mine after the exhaust shop was done with it. Got quite a drone at 1500 rpm though.

This is quite the emotional rollercoaster. I'll take two tickets!