Recent content by Fireflite56

Agreed, there's a good chance you do not need to remove the box to fix the leak. Clean everything to pinpoint the leak. It sounds like it's leaking bad enough that it shouldn't be hard to pinpoint. If it's the hoses, clamps, o-rings on the top, or seal on the bottom, it likely can be fixed in-car.

For some of the ones for my '59, I had to search the Timken p/n directly as it did not show up under my car on its own, but they had it.

Timken brand is available on RockAuto FYI.

Just be aware that it would be nothing short of a miracle if SMS procures and ships what you need before your container leaves in 3 weeks. Months to years is their usual lead time.

Timken is a good brand, with many parts still made in the USA. I did a rear end rebuild on my '59 DeSoto last year and most of the original parts I removed were Timken. I looked up all of the factory part numbers in the parts book and then used a website to cross those to the Timken numbers to...

You can check with Murray. He may have a '65 300 that fits your search. Call, text or email, www.cbodies.com

Murray Park is one of the go-to c-body guys. I'd give him a call, text, or email to inquire about a good used one. www.cbodies.com

For used, try Murray Park, www.cbodies.com For new, try Legendary. If they don't have it, also try SMS in Oregon, but Legendary will be better to work with and probably faster than SMS.

I believe the WPC Club will also be having their annual convention in conjunction with this event.

The package set in the first link has an option for the Mopar bull's-eye center caps, but, yes, I'd have to get 10 left-hand lug nuts.

I'm looking to purchase a set of the reproduction chrome Magnum 500s in the 15x7" size and with the correct profiles - yes, I know neither the 15" diameter or 7" width are original to any Mopar and would have been a Ford option originally, but I want to fill up the wheel well a little more while...

I'm not sure about other sources for new, but I would not rule out a good used set for this particular part and I think I personally would prefer that route myself. The problem with new ones is that while they may be new, are they made with the same exact steel specifications as the original or...

The block should have the VIN stamped into it if it's from that vintage and that will tell you what it came out of. I'm not sure where that was stamped in 1977; maybe someone can chime in here. Otherwise, check the top of the block near the oil pressure sensor or down along both sides of the...

Try emailing Murray Park. He may have most of what you need and he ships worldwide. www.cbodies.com I concur with the wheel lip molding statement above. You also could have them re-anodized as there are places that will do that, but you would need a super nice set without corrosion to start with.

Just to help with your search results, these wheels are called "road wheels". Rallye wheels were offered on the muscle cars and are a different wheel. Good luck with your search!