Engine builder pressed in the cam bearings, cam fits in very nicely, but he had problems with alignement of No. 4.
The passenger side cylinder head oil passage is half way blocked, wheras the other is sitting Perfect, as well as the lower Main feed Port.
Is this still good enough ?
I dont want...
I found out a 4 inch Long rubber hose ( not sure about the diameter) that fits tight on the ceramic insulator is the easiest way to remove the plugs, once they are broken loose. It‘s also a safe way to screw them in by Hand, without Risk to damage first thread Winding. The rubber hose is so...
911-16 are fine for cams below .500 lobe Lift.
925-16 is the comp cams double spring.
I beliefe 440Source is using a different Brand Double spring with similar ratio, But higher max lobe lift capability.
The FSM says camshaft bearing diameter „After reaming „
Was that the standard procedure in the engine plant back then, or is this the workshop procedure only, to correct bearing imperfections in roundness or surface or shrink Caused by the manual press in ?
Reaming would require 5 different tool...
Thank you for response, I did the same but it is hard to reach the K Frame Beside the Oil pan with the car on the ground, and you should not wear your sunday suit.
Therfore I was thinking obout installing a hook to the stub Frame, where it is easy to attach the rope.
Where do you attach the tow rope to pull the disabled vehicle out of the danger zone or on a Trailer? Does anyone have anything mounted on the vehicle or stub Frame to quickly attach a rope ?
If so, a picture would be nice.
Thank you.
What is the best way to lubricate the pivots ?
I have just access to those while the wiper Motor is removed.
I have not yet removed the pivots. Can I take them apart for cleaning and lubrication ?
When using a deeper pan to add capacity, I still would like to have the oil level where it was original. Why changing the oil dip stick ? I think the „Full“ and „add“ mark should stay at the same Level. Please give me a explanation, if I‘m wrong.