Recent content by Gerald Morris

I use a 20 ton press, and recommend you look for something larger than that 6 ton one. Get yourself a 20 ton, and then you'll be SURE you have something large enough for anything you need to do to your ride.

Look at the cloth pads for Ford T-birds. I think these might do, though checking the measurements won't hurt before buying. I might look into this myself, though for now, I'm happy with what's on our '68. Thanks for bringing this to our attention!

You CAN BUY a capacitance meter for around $25, and check the condenser to see if it's at the proper capacitance, around .25-.285 uF according to the FSMs. I did so, and have purged a few bad caps from my stash. Do yourself the favor man.

Definitely heat the block AROUND the tapped hole those 3/8"-16 threads are torqued in to. Use your choice of penetrant lubricants. I would try candlewax. Remember, you can COOL the bolt, shrinking it a bit by applying a wet rag to the end, while warming the block. I sometimes use doubled...

Oh yeah, mine all have it. I posted about these late last year. They polished up so nice, I wondered if they had been done in stainless. All 1970, all have the Pentastar. To spare Joey's server, I'll refrain from reposting pics here. I got a little of Mother's paste and some buffing...

I scored mine for $40/per, to get a set of 5 for $200 on Craigslist. My point here is that the best place to get these is to find a private individual who just needs to sell them. IFF my blood pressure stabilizes (there is SOME hope) then I'll finish painting my 16 slot 1970 rims, buy some...

Yes, the U.S. forged SUPERB steel from 1930-1970. Listen to that pin RING when struck right. I wonder what it would cost to forge something as good now....

Nice console. ALAS, it's the wrong color for our '68, and would entail too much change for too little benefit. For the RIGHT '68 it would be a peach!

You likely have an "infinite resistance" in that circuit then. Look for something burnt out. Does your tester use a breaker to save it from overcurrent? Get the new motor, but SAVE the OLD one. It likely can be cleaned up, and repaired. You can EASILY MAKE a crude amp gauge. Just use some...

You type with the authority of experience and truly. Once one resorts to any ABRASION on a contactor surface, one will race time and oxidation in an ultimate NO-WIN, BUT, to get an otherwise dud breaker to spark up again well enough to get off the road and the Lord-willing to a place to safely...

Go lightly with those, but yes. A points file does better, IFF one can get one. I've 3. Treasures! Fine emery board does well too.

Read THIS: A Poor Man's Master Cylinder Upgrade That will tell you the least expensive and best conversion for your Euro! I'm still using the stuff too. Best Wishes!

1. Remove the box. 2. Find the leak 3. Determine if YOU can repair the leak or NOT. 4. Either repair it yourself, or hire another party to do it for you. 5. You MIGHT want to just replace the steering gear box. Its all a question of time and money; how much do you have?

THIS IS EXCELLENT ADVICE!!! The time SAVED is WELL WORTH the paltry investment. Me, I like breaker points, as I can twiddle them into life and use old Uncle tony type hacks and voodoo on them. Breaker points make a rugged system. Still, I dig the performance I get from my /6 225 w the...

Damn! OK, you're making All The Right Moves thus far then. I leave you in his capable old hands bro, with the best wishes.