Recent content by slantsixdan

That will help a LOT. Yup, it has indeed (and the Corolla's lamps, already good, can safely be made very much better). That's a real problem. Modern headlamps are a whole lot more sensitive to misaim than old ones, yet we don't bother checking aim any more in North America. Yup. Sealed...

A small minority of early sealed beams, mostly the ones made by Auto-Lite, used a bulb soldered into a stamped steel reflector, with a glass lens glued on. These were severely inferior to the all-glass units, which took over completely by about 1956. Careful-careful-careful! The overwhelming...

There are no legitimate / worthy LED headlamps that look anything like sealed beams, full stop. It's a damn shame the "Holley" Retrobrights are as bad as they are, because the concept is a great one (old-fashioned looks with new-fashioned technology). The new JW Speakers look different to the...

And both of those are unsafe junk – I'm not exaggerating. Details in this FABO thread – the only thing not still current in that thread is the recommendations for what to buy instead, which doesn't matter anyway for the cars we talk about here on FCBO, which use quad 5-3/4" round headlamps...

Brand new OE turn signal switches are on my shelf. These are newly made according to the final-revision Chrysler blueprint, by an original supplier to Chrysler. These are not the crude, poor-quality Chinese knockoffs available all over the place, and they are not the Shee-Mar parts that...

…which is fine if you can guarantee that the only loads on the system will be the ones you plan and deliberately induce. But you can't, because stuff happens. Let a cell quietly die in your battery one fine day, and now your alternator will be putting out as much current as it can, even though...

That depends if you were or weren't smart enough to take that circuit out of operation.

This is a super-bad idea. There is just no way of wishing around it; your present plan is a keen recipe for extensive electrical system damage. I think your relative lack of understanding of the subject is making you much more confident in this decision than you should be. Here's another bit of...

Also available at NAPA as Echlin № DL-6123, or from Standard Ignition as № TW-78C. There used to be a guy out of Illinois, name of Koldos, who made the planet's best replacement cams for the '62-'67 turn signal switch. Much better plastic material than original or any of the aftermarket ones...

Stand down; SM-13 is indeed the correct cam for the OE '62-'67 switches. Some people do. :D

Do yourself and your car a large favour: install an A/C compressor clutch relay, so the switches in the A/C unit only have to cope with the few milliamps of current a relay takes to operate, rather than running the numerous-amps clutch current back and forth through the firewall and...

Correct, because Chinese junk. Do the HEI upgrade instead.

Not a direct answer to your question, but read this to understand the weirdness in '70/'71 fuel tanks + caps, and maybe figure out how your aftermarket tank's vents should be hooked up.

You just carefully pry the cam off the switch body with two wide flat screwdrivers. Then you carefully remove the switch shuttles, one at a time, taking careful note of which way round they are (can make a dot at the top with a Sharpie to make it easier to keep track), then you use Q-tips and...

You just carefully pry the cam off the switch body with two wide flat screwdrivers. Then you carefully remove the switch shuttles, one at a time, taking careful note of which way round they are (can make a dot at the top with a Sharpie to make it easier to keep track), then you use Q-tips and...