Experience bypassing a catalytic convertor

spstan

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Car just passed inspection ( thank you Jesus) but mechanic says car is running like crap (it's really not that bad just a rough idle once in a while). He measured the convertor temperature (450 degrees) and after the convertor (280 degrees ) so both he and I think the convertor is starting to plug up. He won't drill out the convertor and he won't bypass it with a pipe. But he claims if I bypass it with a pipe he will pass the car on the next inspection. They wont sell me a non CARB convertor ($162) in New York and a CARB convertor is $560. What do I do? Anyone have experience bypassing a convertor with a piece of exhaust pipe? How do I do it?

BTW what is an original 1975 convertor worth on the scrap market? Paul
 
So the lacquer thinner didn't help anything?
Maybe there is nothing wrong in your converter.
Maybe the trick doesn't do anything?


Please answer this question:

How high will the engine rev up to? Like put it in manual first and accelerate to 30-40-50 mph. How does it run.
We are looking for 3000-4000 rpm, not trying to hurt it.

Plugged exhaust won't let the engine rev.

Yes a cat converter is a restriction. Yes it gets hotter, that's how it does its job and cleans up the exhaust. It doesn't seem plugged by the temperature test.

Make one cut in front of the converter. Cut the pipe off, support the pipe, Does it run any better? now go drive it. Does it have more power.
 
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Take the CAT off. Measure the length of pipe needed. Either buy new or cut the original flanges off the old CAT. Weld flanges on new straight pipe. Enjoy new free flowing exhaust.
I used to bolt the flanges back on the car and set the straight pipe in to get an accurate measurement and set the flange orientation correct.
 
since I haven't lived in NY for 15 years, what are the inspection parameters for a 75? obviously its not ODB so you cant plug it in....is is just safety and a visual for obvious tampering? the first problem with inspectors is that unless you have a longstanding relationship with them or a referral from a trusted friend of theirs, they have to assume you've been sent by the DMV as a trap to get them fined and/or lose their inspection license...that's why I never became an inspection station...the costs were too high for the equipment, and the risks were too high for just trying to help out some broke customer...that being said I knew people that didn't give a crap and would put a sticker on anything so they're out there...maybe if you shop around or go to a buddy's regular mechanic who isn't an inspection station and doesn't have as much to lose you can find someone that will put in a bypass pipe...not familiar with a 75 so no idea if the cat is just a straight application on the intermediate pipe or in a curved section of the engine pipe so ease of replacement would vary greatly...some online places used to sell "test pipes" with the premise being that you could temporarily bolt one in to "test" if your cat was clogged, then remove it and replace it with a new cat if it was...that's how they skirted the law
 
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I whole heartedly agree with the finding out IF the converter is really plugged or you have another problem that is being blamed on the cat converter!

You've already got a single exhaust on the car, so a bit more restriction is not usually noticeable anyplace except WOT. One person, ages ago, put a pressure tap in the Y-pipe of his exh system. Seems the "back pressure" in normal driving was really low, but at the top of low gear in "D", THEN it got high (being it was a single exhaust car).

In about the earlier 1980s, there was such a thing marketed as a "Test Tube". Its purpose was to be installed "as a test" (which is legal to do) for clogged cat converters. Yes, many people got them installed on their cars and the "tests" were "longer term" than not. I was one of them.

A piece of the correct-diameter exhaust pipe, bent appropriately for the car, with a "fit kit" to adapt the pipe to the car. Easy to do.

As to "restrictive", when my then-new '77 Camaro 305 had a transmission malfunction at 3000 miles, as in it would not upshift except at or near 5000rpm . . . after meeting with the service manager (who said "It's under warranty" . . .), when I got back on the main county highway headed home . . . I decided to see just how "emissions choked" my 305 2bbl really was. I had to manually shift it anyway, so it was in "1" and WOT until the tach needle passed 6000rpm and was still pulling, I shifted to manual "2" and drove on. Emissions choked? Not quite! Full cat converter with a dual-outlet muffler.

On my Camaro, the test tube increased the sound of the exhaust (in the car) to levels I did not really like. Louder than suspected. I discovered that a '71-era E-body resonator (under the reaf floor pan on factory dual exhausts) was the correct size to replace "the pipe". That quietened things down very well! I later put an aftermarket converter on the car, anyway, for general principles.

I'm thinking you need a different source for your exhaust system items than the local auto supply! Using a universal converter will need the assistance of a muffler shop, all things considered. Holley sells them, among other places. Have you even looked at www.rockauto.com to see what they have for a Formal Chrysler of any model year?

ON the other hand, all you probably need is the pipe just behind the y-pipe (and in front of the muffler) for a '74 Chrysler. IF the y-pipes and mufflers are the same for the '74 and your model year, changing that intermediate pipe would FIX your issue, seems to me. All bolt-on stuff, IF such can still be bought from Walker Exhaust or similar.

As there has been NO mention of drivability or "power" issues, the cat converter is most probably NOT the issue, even it might have some passages covered over with burned crankcase gunk. That will or should NOT cause a momentary rough idle situation. Put the car on an engine diagnostic scope and watch the spark traces for irregularities related to the ignition system. Chase THAT rabbit.

CBODY67
 
Three hours later . . .

After looking about some other things, I then went into RA to look around. Found nothing relating to cat converters for a Formal New Yorker.

Then into the Walker Exhaust online catalog. THAT's where they were all along! Found three part numbers, two for CARB/NY compliance. One "EPA Compliant". As they also fit LOTS of other vehicles, Not "direct-fit", I suspect. Some welding required? Or the modern "band clamps"?

Then with the part numbers, to Google to look for sources. Yep, high prices abounded, some worse than others. The link back to RA was in the "Search by Part Number" search. The "INFO" icon revealed the multitude of non-Chrysler Products that one part number fit. One part number, 81328, showed "Only 1 left" and a price of $393.70 (plus shipping). The 15038 part number for "EPA Compliant" was like $60.00 plus shipping. Engine size specs were 360-440 for these parts. Pipe inlet and outlet diameters were 2.50".

The key was the "Part Number Search" function as in their normal catalog listings, no cat converters were listed for those Chryslers. Yet the 81328 also fit lots of GM cars, too.

In some respects, this search experience in RA is similar to my discovering that a particular part for a certain model year of vehicle came up empty, but going one model year up or down could yield the desired part (in the same body series, as in "Formal" Chrysler models, for example).

This might also be a case of the same part fitting Chevys and Buicks, plus Chrysler C-bodies. But they only put the Chevy and Buick listings in the RA catalog as there are many more of them produced than Chryslers? In THIS case, what we are concerned about is the size of the pipes and length of the assembly, rather than the brand of cars it might fit.

Just an update,
CBODY67
 
You could measure the exhaust back pressure upstream of the cat. It would require putting a bung upstream of the cat and inserting a pressure gauge sensor.
If it was my vehicle, I would look into the cat being plugged with a back pressure test before spending the $$$.
 
since I haven't lived in NY for 15 years, what are the inspection parameters for a 75? obviously its not ODB so you cant plug it in....is is just safety and a visual for obvious tampering?
NYS inspection for emissions is on a rolling 25 year requirement. Cars older get just safety checks.

.maybe if you shop around or go to a buddy's regular mechanic who isn't an inspection station and doesn't have as much to lose you can find someone that will put in a bypass pipe
I think that's federal law, not New York State. The loophole may be that if the convertor is missing, a shop may be able to replace it with a straight pipe, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Where did you live in New York State?
 
Anyone have experience bypassing a convertor with a piece of exhaust pipe? How do I do it?

Saw the pipe ahead and behind the convertor. Buy a piece of straight pipe in the correct size (2 1/4"?) and use these style band clamps. The band clamps will eliminate the need for enlarging pipes to slip over existing pipe and any adaptors. IMHO, this is the simplest way. The only way this won't work is if the convertor isn't straight inline.

1760630782357.png
 
I whole heartedly agree with the finding out IF the converter is really plugged or you have another problem that is being blamed on the cat converter!

You've already got a single exhaust on the car, so a bit more restriction is not usually noticeable anyplace except WOT. One person, ages ago, put a pressure tap in the Y-pipe of his exh system. Seems the "back pressure" in normal driving was really low, but at the top of low gear in "D", THEN it got high (being it was a single exhaust car).

In about the earlier 1980s, there was such a thing marketed as a "Test Tube". Its purpose was to be installed "as a test" (which is legal to do) for clogged cat converters. Yes, many people got them installed on their cars and the "tests" were "longer term" than not. I was one of them.

A piece of the correct-diameter exhaust pipe, bent appropriately for the car, with a "fit kit" to adapt the pipe to the car. Easy to do.

As to "restrictive", when my then-new '77 Camaro 305 had a transmission malfunction at 3000 miles, as in it would not upshift except at or near 5000rpm . . . after meeting with the service manager (who said "It's under warranty" . . .), when I got back on the main county highway headed home . . . I decided to see just how "emissions choked" my 305 2bbl really was. I had to manually shift it anyway, so it was in "1" and WOT until the tach needle passed 6000rpm and was still pulling, I shifted to manual "2" and drove on. Emissions choked? Not quite! Full cat converter with a dual-outlet muffler.

On my Camaro, the test tube increased the sound of the exhaust (in the car) to levels I did not really like. Louder than suspected. I discovered that a '71-era E-body resonator (under the reaf floor pan on factory dual exhausts) was the correct size to replace "the pipe". That quietened things down very well! I later put an aftermarket converter on the car, anyway, for general principles.

I'm thinking you need a different source for your exhaust system items than the local auto supply! Using a universal converter will need the assistance of a muffler shop, all things considered. Holley sells them, among other places. Have you even looked at www.rockauto.com to see what they have for a Formal Chrysler of any model year?

ON the other hand, all you probably need is the pipe just behind the y-pipe (and in front of the muffler) for a '74 Chrysler. IF the y-pipes and mufflers are the same for the '74 and your model year, changing that intermediate pipe would FIX your issue, seems to me. All bolt-on stuff, IF such can still be bought from Walker Exhaust or similar.

As there has been NO mention of drivability or "power" issues, the cat converter is most probably NOT the issue, even it might have some passages covered over with burned crankcase gunk. That will or should NOT cause a momentary rough idle situation. Put the car on an engine diagnostic scope and watch the spark traces for irregularities related to the ignition system. Chase THAT rabbit.

CBODY67
C; I looked up test pipes and found one listed from LCE mfg for $90. But the trouble is its for 1989-1995. Sent them an e-mail and will wait for response. In the meantime do you know of anyone who sells test pipe for 1975 New Yorker (single exhaust). It would save me some time. thanks for info Paul
 
Saw the pipe ahead and behind the convertor. Buy a piece of straight pipe in the correct size (2 1/4"?) and use these style band clamps. The band clamps will eliminate the need for enlarging pipes to slip over existing pipe and any adaptors. IMHO, this is the simplest way. The only way this won't work is if the convertor isn't straight inline.

View attachment 739100
Thanks Big John. do you know who sells these band clamps? Paul
Saw the pipe ahead and behind the convertor. Buy a piece of straight pipe in the correct size (2 1/4"?) and use these style band clamps. The band clamps will eliminate the need for enlarging pipes to slip over existing pipe and any adaptors. IMHO, this is the simplest way. The only way this won't work is if the convertor isn't straight inline.

View attachment 739100
Big John; do you know who sells these band clamps? Can I get them at an auto parts store? Paul
 
The online Walker Exh catalog indicates that 2.50" normal exh clamps are used. Probably the same for that "front" part of the piping.

Test Tubes' popularity fizzled after the initial flurry of activity. NAPA carried them and the Fit Kit.\

CBODY67
 
Big John, my shop was in Freeport, on Long Island...we were blessed with the dynamometer emission inspections pre OBD II...and a CO/HC idle sniffer test prior to that
 
Big John, my shop was in Freeport, on Long Island...we were blessed with the dynamometer emission inspections pre OBD II...and a CO/HC idle sniffer test prior to that
Ahhh... The regulations in that area were tighter than up here (I'm near Syracuse) for some years. We never had emissions inspection until the OBDII and tying the whole mess to Albany .. The windshield stickers were even different.

Side story... After the network system became standard, there were stories where the shop would punch in the info on the car to the system and then get a phone call from the State Troopers. They would ask if the car owner was there and if the answer was yes, they would tell them to try to delay them and a trooper was on the way. They were using it to find find people with bench warrants or probation/parole violations. I haven't heard any more stories like that, maybe the criminals got smart or the troopers decided not to put shop owners in the middle.
 
I spent too much time in mechanics school and repair shops. 3C's folks, Complaint cause correction.

This guy refuses to deal in facts and operates on feelings. He feels the converter is plugged.

He refuses to answer the question will the car rev to 3000-4000 rpm under load. His only complaint is rough idle once in a while. Is the converter only plugged once in a while?
 
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I figure he'll continue to obsess about the converter till he removes it, whether it's the problem or not...so might as well try to help him along...Big John the inspection/warrant deal is one I've never heard of...that's funny
 
I spent too much time in mechanics school and repair shops. 3C's folks, Complaint cause correction.

This guy refuses to deal in facts and operates on feelings. He feels the converter is plugged.

He refuses to answer the question will the car rev to 3000-4000 rpm under load. His only complaint is rough idle once in a while.
4; my side of the story; I've seen these symptoms before in my 1986 Caprice and that's a fact not a feeling. It turned out to be the catalytic convertor. So this is a "where have I seen this before" story. I really believe there is no substitution for experience.

So my race car driving neighbor came over and we took out the bolts that attach the front end of the convertor. There was about a 30-40% improvement in performance. And that's a fact. Loosening the bolts let a little of the exhaust escape and I'm thinking if that small amount of relief in pressure causes a noticeable improvement than replacing the whole cat with a pipe should further enhance performance. I'll get back to you after we do this. Paul
 
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