Electric Connector Body Info / Source Needed; 3 Terminal Female Body

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Fury1969WI

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Looking for these terminal/connector bodies for resistor switch and vacuum switch as mine are melted. They seem close to the connection to the floor mounted high beam switch. I was certain someone on here recently put a name to these things but i can't find it. Been chasing my tail on eBay, Amazon, and other electric supplies like Mouser. Even tried looking up Rhode Island wiring based on other historic posts but seem they went out of business last fall (Rhode Island Wiring Service, Inc. | West Kingston RI )

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Pretty sure I can help you with the dimmer switch connector. Maybe the other too I would have to check some old harnesses. Where are you located?
 
I have the dimmer switch connector - i was trying to say the heater connections were "like" the dimmer switch ... maybe they are the same but they seem a little narrow. That could be because both of my heater switch/resistor switch bodies are half melted.

Anyway - I'm in Verona
 
I'm pretty sure they are different as you figured. I will check my stash and get back to you. Is that all you need is that black connector or do you need some wire with it?
 
Well I have one in my hand that is probably correct. Its a 67 harness so I believe it might be the resistor end. But I can check as I have the same switch as yours to check against. When I get a chance I can look through my extensive old connector connection and see if I can match it up. I would be crimping new connectors on your wires - no splicing. If you don't have the capability then ship it to me and I will do it for you. I have everything to do it correctly.
 
Sixpactogo said:
I chopped this one off of a 68 Charger harness I have. It looks like it got a little warm but should be OK.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sending this. That connector body is a little better than what i have currently (no pun intended) on the harness ... i might search around a bit for something better. It is a big plus to have a decent pigtail to work with -that's looks to be from the resistor end I think.

Also, looks like some of these are red and others black. Right now there is a red connector body up at the vacuum switch and a black one at the resistor.
 
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You probably should look into your blower motor condition. If you have melted wires and connectors, normally it is due to the motor drawing high current because it is struggling to run at high speed. They get dirty and dried out from the 50 + years of activity and non activity. I have taken a couple of mine apart, cleaned them up and put a couple drops of clock oil on the bushings. I noticed a big difference in the blower speeds.
 
Sixpactogo said:
You probably should look into your blower motor condition. If you have melted wires and connectors, normally it is due to the motor drawing high current because it is struggling to run at high speed. They get dirty and dried out from the 50 + years of activity and non activity. I have taken a couple of mine apart, cleaned them up and put a couple drops of clock oil on the bushings. I noticed a big difference in the blower speeds.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I took it apart and put new brushes in it years ago. I think this damage to wiring was from prior instances.

However! I was just trying to do an Amp draw test on the motor since i don't seem to get anything at from the "Low" fan switch setting. I put my gauge/tester in series with the connector but get no reading on DC Amps setting. I'm guessing this means that the motor wants more than my tester's 10A capacity (?).

I was looking for specs on what that blower motor should draw and i think vaguely it should be something along the order of 3-5 Amps (maybe a good bit more at initial start-up).

So, while off topic i'm thinking i either need to get a better DC Amp measurement tool (looks like about $80 (Klein Tools CL390 - Home Depot) or just buy a new fan for about $50 +shipping (FOUR SEASONS 35563 - Rockauto (for 69 Fury with factory AC)).

I have learned the hard way that throwing parts at something without confirming they are bad just introduces new variables. I guess i'm getting a measurement tool (and probably a new blower motor! :) )
 
Fury1969WI said:
Thanks for this. I took it apart and put new brushes in it years ago. I think this damage to wiring was from prior instances.

However! I was just trying to do an Amp draw test on the motor since i don't seem to get anything at from the "Low" fan switch setting. I put my gauge/tester in series with the connector but get no reading on DC Amps setting. I'm guessing this means that the motor wants more than my tester's 10A capacity (?).
Click to expand...

You likely have an "infinite resistance" in that circuit then. Look for something burnt out. Does your tester use a breaker to save it from overcurrent?

Fury1969WI said:
I was looking for specs on what that blower motor should draw and i think vaguely it should be something along the order of 3-5 Amps (maybe a good bit more at initial start-up).

So, while off topic i'm thinking i either need to get a better DC Amp measurement tool (looks like about $80 (Klein Tools CL390 - Home Depot) or just buy a new fan for about $50 +shipping (FOUR SEASONS 35563 - Rockauto (for 69 Fury with factory AC)).
Click to expand...

Get the new motor, but SAVE the OLD one. It likely can be cleaned up, and repaired. You can EASILY MAKE a crude amp gauge. Just use some slo-blow fuses in a harness to your problem motor. When you stop popping the fuse, note the ampacity. If the motor should start smoking at that point, then you will know where your problem truly is too.

Fury1969WI said:
I have learned the hard way that throwing parts at something without confirming they are bad just introduces new variables.
Click to expand...

VERY VERY TRUE AND BE ADVISED OF IT!

Fury1969WI said:
I guess i'm getting a measurement tool (and probably a new blower motor! :) )
Click to expand...

Save your $ on the ammeter unless you REALLY NEED ONE FOR A LOT MORE THAN THIS JOB. It doesn't do you that much good knowing precisely how much current your motors are pulling, old or new. You can EASILY measure VOLTAGE DROP and estimate the load current if you simply MUST know. I dig curiosity and good data, sure, but RELEVANT RESULTS I like better.

Best Luck 2 ya!
 
Looks like the pictured A/C/heater control may have suffered some heat damage as well. May need to verify the electrical section of the control is fully functioning internally. No low speed would indicate a problem in the switch/control. Adding some relays will reroute the blower motor current away from the fairly hard to come-by and spendy factory or repo switches. A freshly serviced blower motor draws 2-3 amps unloaded (on the bench, no fan wheel) and can draw up to 10-12 amps on high installed and moving air.
A-E-body AC relays full2.jpg
 
72RoadRunnerGTX said:
Looks like the pictured A/C/heater control may have suffered some heat damage as well. May need to verify the electrical section of the control is fully functioning internally. No low speed would indicate a problem in the switch/control. Adding some relays will reroute the blower motor current away from the fairly hard to come-by and spendy factory or repo switches. A freshly serviced blower motor draws 2-3 amps unloaded (on the bench, no fan wheel) and can draw up to 10-12 amps on high installed and moving air.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on current draw - very timely! I have a new blower motor on order I was going to bench test but my new DC Amp meter arrived first.
:). I put the clamp on the blower motor wire yesterday and got readings of (about/from memory) 8.4A on high, 5.4A on medium, and 3.9A on low. Blower motor is still in the car, with the hamster wheel attached so it sounds like that's not too far off the mark. Wiring on the engine side was already warm after only a few minutes, not hot but you could tell it was doing some work.

I would love to wire in some relays, like i did for the headlights - thanks for the schematic!

I cleaned and tested both the blower motor switch and vacuum switches, I'm confident they are working well (and Deoxit is great for cleaning up switches and connections BTW).

Regarding LOW, I was surprised to I got an Amp reading on LOW setting yesterday so i turned off everything making any kind of noise in the garage and only then i could hear the motor running. You don't feel anything coming out of the ducts (Note: this is just using battery power - car is not running). I'm glad you show the 3 terminal blower motor switch. When i had that apart on the bench I could swear the glide wasn't doing anything on LOW - or maybe just over the (EDITED) light green wire. The schematic is hard for me to follow but it seems LOW only works on HEAT (and I assume DEFROST based on the bus in the vacuum switch for HEAT and DEFROST keys. FWIW, a good fan and defrost is really what I'm concerned about working -- so I can defog windows when i get caught in the rain).


ps - i really appreciate your video series on ammeters and charging circuits on YouTube, just excellent! I realized you ended that series, but if you're considering more I'd love a comprehensive one on setting up fuel sending units and gauge calibrations. I'll buy you a beverage of your choice! Thanks again @72RoadRunnerGTX !
 
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Fury1969WI said:
Thanks for the info on current draw - very timely! I have a new blower motor on order I was going to bench test but my new DC Amp meter arrived first.
:). I put the clamp on the blower motor wire yesterday and got readings of (about/from memory) 8.4A on high, 5.4A on medium, and 3.9A on low. Blower motor is still in the car, with the hamster wheel attached so it sounds like that's not too far off the mark. Wiring on the engine side was already warm after only a few minutes, not hot but you could tell it was doing some work.

I would love to wire in some relays, like i did for the headlights - thanks for the schematic!

I cleaned and tested both the blower motor switch and vacuum switches, I'm confident they are working well (and Deoxit is great for cleaning up switches and connections BTW).

Regarding LOW, I was surprised to I got an Amp reading on LOW setting yesterday so i turned off everything making any kind of noise in the garage and only then i could hear the motor running. You don't feel anything coming out of the ducts (Note: this is just using battery power - car is not running). I'm glad you show the 3 terminal blower motor switch. When i had that apart on the bench I could swear the glide wasn't doing anything on LOW - or maybe just over the black wire. The schematic is hard for me to follow but it seems LOW only works on HEAT (and I assume DEFROST based on the bus in the vacuum switch for HEAT and DEFROST keys. FWIW, a good fan and defrost is really what I'm concerned about working -- so I can defog windows when i get caught in the rain).


ps - i really appreciate your video series on ammeters and charging circuits on YouTube, just excellent! I realized you ended that series, but if you're considering more I'd love a comprehensive one on setting up fuel sending units and gauge calibrations. I'll buy you a beverage of your choice! Thanks again @72RoadRunnerGTX !
Click to expand...
Yes, the fan speed selector switch is “off” in the low position, no continuity through the switch. There should be continuity from the black* to the light green side in medium only, then to the dark green side in high only.

Some recent bench testing. B-body configuration, same basic circuits, different control switch.
relays.jpg


This one is a little more involved, recent update on one of my cars. This not only removes all A/C/heater related current loads from the control/speed switches but also includes the compressor clutch draw and removes all related loading off the ignition switch.
AC relays updated.jpg

Finished product
relay box.jpg


Finished up a second set of videos not too long ago with one covering gauge function and calibration. Not so much on the tank sender specifically.
 
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