What does the interior of a complete and working glove box look like?

[NeverTooLateToRegress]

My 65 Plymouth Fury III has the door and hinge but isn't able to stay closed and I can't find any images of what parts I might be missing. Would someone please post photos and if possible a list of parts one might need? The Factory Manual doesn't cover this stuff. Thanks!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

There is a push button locking latch (keyed to the trunk key) in the glove box door, and a little striker plate that the latch grabs. The striker plate is adjustible, so if it's out of adjustment, the latch might not be grabbing the striker plate. The striker has two phillips head screws holding it into the dash frame.

Can you post a picture of your door, and the top of the glove box door opening?

 

[CBODY67]

You might find the parts in the Chrysler Factory Parts Manual.

The "striker" might look like a 1/15" diameter piece of metal stock bent, which attaches to the instrument panel via holes in each flattened end. Slotted holes for adjustment.

From the attachment point, the metal does a 90 degree bend downward and forms a U-shape that is probably 1/2" wide. This is where the key cyl/latch indexes with it to keep the door closed and not rattle. There should be two small rubber bumpers to help with the "no rattle when closed" situation.

The key cylinder/pushbutton/latch mechanism is usually all one piece.

That's what the one in our '66 Newport basically looks like.

Hope this might help,
CBODY67

 

[NeverTooLateToRegress]

That's extremely helpful, thanks. I was able to find a lock online, just need to check what's in my glove box. Could be just an adjustment issue but I think I'm probably missing the latch mechanism. I'll look at it in the morning.

 

[1970FuryConv]

That's extremely helpful, thanks. I was able to find a lock online, just need to check what's in my glove box. Could be just an adjustment issue but I think I'm probably missing the latch mechanism. I'll look at it in the morning.

If it's like 1970, the door latch

engages with this, which attaches to the dash shell above the door

The 1970 lock extends into the latch

 

[NeverTooLateToRegress]

Welp, I have the strike plate that CBODY67 described and I have the push button with key slot BUT I'm missing the back side with the lock cylinder... (excuse me while I call my therapist). Do you think a lock smith might be able to supply a generic tumbler or do I need to buy one of these extortionist $100 locks?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Start searching eBay - there are TONS out there...

1960s Mopar Glove Box Lock for sale | eBay

1966 Fury Glove Box Lock for sale | eBay

 

[NeverTooLateToRegress]

Okay, I took a chance on one that looked exactly like the parts I had but whose ad said didn't fit mine but that could be due to the seller not putting all compatible vehicles on their list. I tried taking what I have apart but the only thing I got off was the "base" chrome ring. I couldn't take out the chrome keyhole cap. Anybody try to take that off?

It's got this wavy bottom that is preventing the lock from dropping out of the body. Maybe I need to soak it in penetrating fluid.

The one I got looked better than the $100 NOS in the box one but 40% cheaper. The NOS one was pretty oxidized and didn't have any chrome, which I imagine was added on during assembly?

 

[CBODY67]

I suspect you were seeing some "accumulation" of oxidation that might come off pretty easily with some rubbing compound or similar. I also suspect that IF any assembly lube was applied when the item was new, it would have evaporated many decades ago.

Please keep us posted on how things end up.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[NeverTooLateToRegress]

By the way, this is what was in my car. I slipped the chrome collar out by hand but couldn't get the key hole chrome cap off to dissemble what was left. It's missing the latch hardware although I think I have the actual latch piece itself or the latch of a different car.

The NOS one looked like mine but was missing the chrome pieces. I figure maybe the factory placed them on manually? I've seen just the inside lock cylinder without the pot metal L shaped piece. That might be a good candidate for cold resin casting.

My trunk key does fit and turn the lock so I think it's original to the car.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Yours is missing the guts. When you get the one you ordered, you can have a locksmith swap the pins so your trunk key works with it.