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Second installment/ steps in the lower dash cover. Cut filler pieces where the screw holes blew out. Laminated two pieces of.030 styrene cut, filed, beveled to closely match the contour. After the screw holes are filled, sections of the flange are filed down .030 and a 1/2" Dutchman is Cut...

I seem to remember three fastnets to hold the cast extensions on. The body has two on the bottom, used an inspection mirror with no proof of a third from the back, where there is a mounting hole. Anyone have pics or ? Yes the bolts will get a puff of body color paint.

Hmm, no I didn't, the brace should be black?

Some snacking today, fender braces, battery tray test fitted and filler pieces below the tail lights. Battery tray was dusted off after the pic. Fastners on the extensions will eventually get swapped for painted ones

Started the under dash trim piece repair, that should not have happened. Any how, started with relief cuts on the center rib to allow a gusset plate to be installed. Once the relief cuts were made the center section was filed down to allow the Polyester plastic piece to fit flush avoiding the...

Monday, when we mounted the fender extensions, we found the drivers side missing its cast on studs for the stamped nuts. Must have sheared off when the NOS fenders were installed. My Dad at some point took them to work on a midnight shift. He filed them flat and drilled and tapped them to accept...

So, nicely painted fenders, out of clean new moving blankets to set them on. Do you set them on the concrete, hang them up? Or grab some house hold rugs, a yoga mat and a blanket? I opted for choice three and got the "LOOK". Fortunately my buddy had the save and put the paper on top of the...

That is the radiator/ core support shim, goes between the frame and support.

Front end is "on". Need to find the blower motor and test, the antenna base will need to also be installed. Paint work seems to be okay no solvent pops at this time. Head light baffles, hood latch and support next. Extra set of hands was helpful and good to see an old friend too.

Day two and three of hardware-a-rama. Primed, with the 2 k Spaymax primer, layed out like I'm use to. No off gassing or wrinkling up. Mixed up my first two stage, looking good so far. The Paasche LGX-14 HVLP (made in Wisconsin, a bit more than HF detail gun, less than the Black Widow. Nice...

Using an antique, fished out the Montgomery Ward 1 quart sand blasting gun. My Dad bought it to work over the rust on the same wagon. Worked like a champ after knocking the dust off, guess it was a needless step.

It's as hot and miserable as I remember, at least it's down to the body washers. Giving the round ones a blast on the edges and a face to give'm some tooth for the paint to stick to. Once done, a blast of air, a soaking in liquor thinner for a final clean. A wipe with a degreasor etcher on a...

Well 90% of the hardware, sometimes are in the mail I hope. Grided it out, I know what will need painting. Have a new Paasche LXS HVLP, to base coat all the hardware requiring body color paint. Need to sort the hood latch components and get them on the matrix. Next step is to make a cardboard...

A Friend on mine (likes GM cars) has volunteered some time while in town on business to help, he has jumped started me. Counting the hardware, laying it to get an idea of what will need painting. Once this is done a cardboard sheet will be grided out and labeled, so the bits can find their way...

5 1/4" +/- from center of radius and 1 1/8" from top of window seal to center of decal. This is a factory application on a 69 Fury suburban wagon

I'll try and get a photo but raise it about the height of the decal. Distance from the rear radius of thevquater windo seems correct. Mine is original placement from factory

It's only nuts and bolts and I like it. Made another sojourn up to Wisconsin, to harvest more sample hardware. Figured out how to do it. Pre-printed paper labels, tapped the hardware to the label. Each has a locator number on it and a corresponding number on the applicable assembly drawing. Now...

Just recieved this today, from MMC Detroit. Their Standard Hardware Guide. It has the promise to break down what the hardware looks like and its place on the Car. Its placement for most locations will hopefully be found in Faxons reprint of the 69-70 Body Assembly Manual. Can not stress proper...

Even early run to late 69 and 70. Early 69 gravity holds the top hinge down and a screw ultimately holds the lower pivot point together. Sometime late 69 and 70 the top hinge has a roll pin that goes through the top hinge/ pivot

Plymouth T7 Saddle Bronze Metallic / Iradescent, depending on what paint manufacture chip sheet you look at.