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I reinstalled the original radiator after rethreading the aluminum on both sides, and even using pipe sealant on top of that to no avail. Put the original back in, and ... it solves everything. Everything at once. Transmission fluid is better, coolant is better, even the lines that were rubbing...

Once again, seems like you guys are on the money. Checked both sides, on both ends. It's definitely the fault of the aluminum. And that's the problem I'm running into now: how to remove the aluminum fittings without doing damage. Even just trying to use pliers to get a grip is already visibly...

Thank you very much. It did take quite a while, for several reasons, but happy how it turned out. I also planned from the start to do a poll for each brand, just a matter of finding the time, since they only get more involved from here, but hopefully I can get the others up soon.

Appreciate the input, not very good at these sorts of things, learning as I go. I suppose the next question I would have is how I would go about removing the nut and fitting themselves?

The radiator was bought new last year, and these are the original nuts, so I'm assuming it's on the nut's end. Though not ruling out the possibility since the radiator is aluminum, but they feel good.

Current issue: transmission fluid leaking from driver side line connecting to the radiator. The nut would tighten to a point then go loose again. Tried re-mounting it to get a more flush fit, now it'll only spin on hand tight/hand loose. I'm guessing the threading is done for now? Any ideas for...

Thanks for this. I was able to get some redlines for my Dodge, but turns out almost all of the ones I could find for sale were aluminum. Not a big deal, but didn't realize at the time that anodized aluminum is basically impossible to clean without redoing everything from scratch, so I can see...

Big Blue, AKA Polecat, AKA Struggle Shuttle AKA The Big Bluebowski. 1971 Dodge Polara, base, 4 door sedan, 383 2-barrel, 727 transmission, all manual drums. FQ5 Coral Turquoise, black interior, black vinyl top (long gone), black carpet, black everything; pretty much no options or as basic as...

Decided to add some explanatory details between cosmetic changes in years. Let me know if there's anything I missed or got something wrong. Also, interesting spread so far:

1973: Front: · Grille texture becomes finer; no longer egg crate. · Imperial script remains in the bottom right. · 5 mph bumpers added. Side: · Rear: · Tail light assemblies become slimmer, no longer bisected. · Tail lights have their own outline now. · 5 mph bumpers added.

1972: Front: · Turn signals have their own housings separate from the grille. · Hood form changes; more raised and smooth, while fenders become more pronounced. · Eagle logo becomes smaller, gets its own ring/wreath. · Imperial script moved back to bottom right of the grille. · Bumper no...

1971: Front: · Appliques added to headlight doors, resembling the '65-'66 shape. · Hood logo replaces the eagle with Imperial script. Side: · Front fender emblem removed. · Rear fender script added. · Side mirrors become rectangular. · Return of fender skirts. Rear: · Imperial script removed...

1970: Front: · Turn signals elongated and widened to touch the edges of the bumper. · No more feature lines on the grille; egg crate pattern only. · Imperial script center right. · Turn signals no longer have Imperial logo. Side: · Body moulding positioned on lower third of body. · Front side...

Search would indicate this question's never been asked before, so figured I'd start a series of polls (one for each brand, since polls only allow 10 options per thread) to see where this site's preferences lie. Also may take multiple replies since there's also a limit of 10 attachments per post...

Sylvania tends to consistently make the best headlight restoration kits, which makes sense since they also make headlights. The vast majority of the competitors tend to be pretty useless by comparison, surprisingly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429NKWK

https://www.the-big-dodge.de/ According to search, this site has only been mentioned once on here, and that was in 2013, and wasn't the subject of the thread. Couldn't find the site at first so was worried it might've gone down, but since I found it I thought attention should be brought to it...

So in this case, an M code/M0 code means it was either a sales bank car, or a special order? And Y33 means it was fleet sales? What could this mean, in this context? It doesn't seem like it was ever taxi or police, and I'm not sure what other fleets there could be other than perhaps rental car...