Search results for query: brake boosters

Thanks for the quick replies. I assumed that the valve covers fit all models and that it was due to the power brake booster. I was probably mistaken. I'll look for valve covers for the 1971 C bodies. Many thanks for the help

Up for sale is this Bendix power brake booster for a disk/drum application, it's off a 1972 Dodge Polara and was rebuilt by Booster Dewey and never used. It needs a little clean up where the master cylinder was bolted and the check valve will need to be replaced. Price $175.00 and includes...

If the parking brake was like my DeSotos (a hand brake that is easy to control), I'd drive the car on and off the show field using that. Unfortunately, the ratcheting foot pedal is harder to control and I don't need to risk hitting something in the process.

I actually like the old power brake set up. The master cylinder does not push through the brake booster so if the booster goes bad you just end up with manual brakes. The booster pushes the top of the pedal and adds some assist. The top of the master cylinder comes off pretty easy7 with a box...

Thank Thank you.

As has been noted in many other threads, the "best" kit is getting the full "kit" off of an OEM Chrysler Corp vehicle with factory disc brakes on it. Booster included, then get it rebuilt at "Booster Steve" www.powerbrakebooster.com . Also rebuilding the components, too. Initially, I liked...

I just bought the same model car, can you give me some info about the brake booster and master. Where did you buy these parts ? What is the manufacturer and mode number ? Thanks for your help

Where can I buy a brake booster rebuild kit?

Brake MC has been updated to bendix booster with dual res for the disc drum setup not shown in some engine pics

Missed that. So figure add about another 350-400 for someone in need of the right booster and a rebuild.

I need the firewall section, from the heater box to the top of the cowl, and over to the brake booster. My drain hole under the wiper motor is rusted out.

Due to the fact that the basic body architecture was designed in the middle 1950s and carried through to 1962 or later, that can explain the heater hose routings, hvac system location, and the access to the master cylinder on those cars. Power brakes made things worse, it appears, with the type...

That was what I was thinking. I am considering getting a kit and doing it myself. I have the Bendix booster, not the Kelsey Hayes.

honestly, no I've never side by side comparison stopped 2 cars...and that would be useless unless there was some way to measure the actual pedal pressure used ,cause 2 different drivers wouldn't equal identical results...many early power brake cars (not necessarily Mopar)would lock up the brakes...

First thing to do is do a little testing... Since you have power brakes, this will tell you if there's a problem like a leak or air in the brake lines. First check the fluid level. If it's down, you may have a leak. With the engine off, put your foot on the brake pedal and press. Lather...

items that are gone intakes, grilles 1 fury dash all 12v gen starters 2 gas tanks 2 were scrapped, radios. all taillights air cleaners fender 2 hood birds brake booster if you have interest act. because if there is none items left will go to boyscouts scrap metal drive

Booster Steve is THE right person to get what you need . I suggest calling him

Something isn’t right. You need to do some more digging and inspecting. The lead on the booster is a good one… maybe you also need to get some new shoes and send some love to the brake mechanisms, including the wheel cylinders.

You sure about that? I phoned wildcat and a few other sources, they said there's nothing, only rebuildable cores, which I of course already have. Insult to injury, the nuts came straight off without a fight. Neato. Though that said, the pushrod moves very freely, the seal around it...

Bad flex lines? Looks good, but collapsed internally?