Search results for query: brake boosters

honestly, no I've never side by side comparison stopped 2 cars...and that would be useless unless there was some way to measure the actual pedal pressure used ,cause 2 different drivers wouldn't equal identical results...many early power brake cars (not necessarily Mopar)would lock up the brakes...

First thing to do is do a little testing... Since you have power brakes, this will tell you if there's a problem like a leak or air in the brake lines. First check the fluid level. If it's down, you may have a leak. With the engine off, put your foot on the brake pedal and press. Lather...

items that are gone intakes, grilles 1 fury dash all 12v gen starters 2 gas tanks 2 were scrapped, radios. all taillights air cleaners fender 2 hood birds brake booster if you have interest act. because if there is none items left will go to boyscouts scrap metal drive

Booster Steve is THE right person to get what you need . I suggest calling him

Something isn’t right. You need to do some more digging and inspecting. The lead on the booster is a good one… maybe you also need to get some new shoes and send some love to the brake mechanisms, including the wheel cylinders.

You sure about that? I phoned wildcat and a few other sources, they said there's nothing, only rebuildable cores, which I of course already have. Insult to injury, the nuts came straight off without a fight. Neato. Though that said, the pushrod moves very freely, the seal around it...

Bad flex lines? Looks good, but collapsed internally?

Hey Big Mopar - I just want to say thank you for your suggestion. I did find the booster you referred to at Rock Auto, and it arrived today. The mounting holes line up on my 69 Fury, and the brake plunger/actuator thing has the right sized hole to bolt up with the brake pedal. So thank you...

Up for sale two feet of correct brake booster/pvc hose, this retails for $30.00 plus shipping, purchase this for $20.00 and I'll include shipping to anywhere in the United States. PM me if interested.

Well, you mentioned nothing about the "Total Contact" dual wheel cylinder brakes. You might find some factory information and links to a network of Chrysler 300 Letter Car people at www.jholst.net . Perhaps there is an illustrated expanded view of the master cyl and booster in the brakes...

Going full show car and painted the new brake lines. So when I had the car on the rod run, I blocked off the rear brake line on the block and sent it. But the brakes were almost completely gone, it barely stopped if i stood on it with both feet. And it felt plugged, like stepping on a rock...

Well check further for vacuum leaks. disconnect The brake booster and plug the fitting.

Since I got my 300 the idea of a front disc swap has always been in back of my mind.. I know that it’s pretty straightforward with parts from a 69-73 Plymouth Dodge or Chrysler. But I was wondering if I could use the hydraulic parts (calipers, booster/master cylinder, proportioning valve and...

As far as the reconditioning of the brake booster I recommend Booster Dewey in Portland Or. They do very high quality brake booster reconditioning.

If you want disc brakes check the ECI kit EC-769CK - I'm currently going back and forth between them to get a kit for my own RHD car, but saylor seems to have had a good time with them, with a bit of modification here and there (the rubber lines provided were apparently too short). Others have...

Scored a factory set of OEM C- body disc brakes pulled from what was left of a 69 Dodge Polara thanks to Desert Valley Auto in Black Canyon City AZ. I’m going to rebuild these and clean them up for my 68 Plymouth Sport Fury. Includes the spindles, wide mouth Kelsey Hayes single piston calipers...

Hey Fury! How'd the Leed conversion go? Any problems with the Leed booster bolting up to the firewall? Any challenges with the rod length? Thanks in advance!

You should be able to use the later single diaphragm from a Fusey if you have a console shift. Because it's bigger in diameter, it's a no go on column shift cars because it interferes with the shift linkage. Should be easier to find too. Kevin

My 78 does the same thing when it’s cold however it has a built 440 with a heavy cam. I believe that’s what’s causing my issue once it’s warmed up it doesn’t do it anymore. I’m assuming low vacuum, but it doesn’t do it all the time.

Yes a long time ago I siwtched for dual MC and power brake. Now just hoping that after changing the rubber hoses it doesn't do it again. So far the pedal raised from when I changed the hoses, I hope it stay that way, I have drove the car 300 miles since I changed hoses, and this week I will...