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My son took care of it this morning. His nickname is "Eagleeyesnimblefingers". Took a while to get gas to the carb but it kept cranking like mad and then fired right up. I'm assuming we can run the car indefinitely with the amp meter bypassed like this - yes?? Thanks for the help on this guys!!

Should I disconnect both and reconnect them clear of the ammeter or just disconnect the red and connect it on top of the black??

Gentlemen, Back to this project, finally, but mostly due to wanting to get the car to winter storage. See the attached pic. This is the back of the amp gauge. We have 12+ volts from the battery through the fusible link to the red terminal on the gauge. We DO NOT have any voltage at the...

Guys, Don't give up on me yet! Very busy the last several weeks - moving our business location and a trip to Road Atlanta and Atlanta Motorsports Park for a couple track days. The car is in my garage and out of harm's way but will definitely need to be moved to storage soon. Hopefully will...

Did not get to it this weekend. The car is safe & sound in my garage (not where it's normally stored) so at least it's out of the weather. Will definitely post when I find the problem. Thanks for checking!!

You mean like they do on TV??! Thanks again for all the help!

THANKS very much but... I do have an original FSM with wiring diagrams. All set on this end and plan on spending the weekend getting it running!

Thanks traintech55 and 78brougham. I understand you need to remove the dash (ugh) to get to amp gauge. Is this the case? Also, check for power to both sides of the gauge??? Does this mean I can bypass the gauge by connecting the two leads? Just trying to get the car back to storage at this...

OK Guys. Here's what I have. Using a 12v test light w/probe (see attached pics) I had a light at each point marked by a red square. Fusible link looks fine plus there's power on both sides of the link. Horn works but NO headlights or brake lights. NO wipers (with the ignition on) plus NO...

Thanks to all you guys! Will check the F link and appreciate the other suggestions. I'll let you know what I find -

Where is it located on this car? A couple friends mentioned the fusible link and Chrysler products but do not know where to look!

Full disclosure - auto electric is not something I'm very good at! 1968 Chrysler 300 w/440 and 37,000 original miles. Drove the car a couple weeks ago to a car show. Came back in the dark and noticed the headlights were dim and getting dimmer as we got close to home. Car got us home but...

FINALLY! Someone else is having the vent tube problem! Thanks 440Sled - We're going to try high-octane, leaded CAM2 for a couple tanks. Not sure if that'll help but will let you guys know either way.

Thanks to all - Have heard good things about the Edlebrock and may end up going that way. In the meantime, we still have gasoline pissing out the vent tubes when a full or nearly full tank on a hot day. Any ideas on that? Anybody else ever have that happen? Every time I see a C Body or 440...

Thanks. I tried a vented cap but due to the damn near horizontal filler neck, I ended up with another gas leak! We've also tried Cam2 high octane leaded (runs cooler!) but that didn't help.

The vent lines is on a long list of things we've tried/checked. Both are free and clear.

New to the forum and glad I found you guys – hope someonecan help with this. We have a 1968 300 convertible. Thirty-six thousand miles, 440 cu. in. (withthe Holley) all original survivor car – it was my uncle’s. Been having a couple problems and I think they’re related. The car starts and runs...