Search results for query: *

My gear got messed up without me even touching the spool valve housing. I only monkeyed with it later because that's what your supposed to do when it wants to turn by itself. Later I also changed the o-rings mentioned here, even though I had no leaks from the valve body. I changed them...

Have a look at this thread: https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/confused-about-slab-era-upper-control-arm-splash-shield.86970/ And let me know which one of two possible patterns you have on your car currently.

Rock auto has the Dorman 13996 for $10. It appears to have the correct dimensions to what I need, their application data is either wrong or I don't know what: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3662640&cc=0&pt=7668&jsn=488 I'm still waiting for anyone to chime up if these hubs had...

Going to Dorman's site and entering car info ('67 Monaco) wheel bearing dust cap they still give 13976 which is too small. 13976 Wheel Hub Dust Caps Application Summary: Chrysler 1972-66, Dodge 1973-63, Ford 1966-65, Plymouth 1972-66, Toyota 1987-68 Application Notes: Front Outer Diameter...

For drum-brake cars, were there 2 different hub sizes? 1 9/16 and 1 13/16 (1.6" and 1.8") ? At some point in the past year I bought a couple of Dorman 13976 front-hub dust caps. I later discovered that they don't fit - they're too small. At the time, the part was a Dorman 13967, but...

Are you talking about this o-ring? Because the spool valve itself has no o-rings on it.

Check gas tank venting. Spark plug gap. Plug wires (too high resistance if using modern wires?). Hope you're using a good break-in oil with lots of zinc.

@GrandpasDream

I wrote earlier in this thread that I installed a pair of MCQUAY-NORRIS FB290, well, I did, but those are the upper arm bushings. I did also buy a pair of MCQUAY-NORRIS FA395 - those are the upper ball joints. I did install them, my arms were sand blasted but otherwise nothing else done to the...

Dexron 3 has horrible shear properties over time. Non-lockup torque converters will shear your oil. ATF+4 has much better shear properties and will last much longer in a 727. Type F is bad for your 727, it will wear your clutch bands. It will give you harder shifts (if you like that sort of...

From the 1965 Plymouth service manual, the default Fury tire size was 7.35-14. Reading between the lines, I presume that was for slant-6 cars. Station wagon (apparently slant-6) was 8.25-14. V8 cars (not wagons) was 7.75-14. V8 wagons was 8.55-14. This was for all Fury's. I don't have a...

https://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36401 Some of that - I don't get. They're talking about full-size (C-bodies) up to '74 having 2" rear drums? Really? But it looks like my drums really did come from a d100? Rockauto is showing Raybestos 2955R as being "Rear, with 11in x 2in...

I almost wish that would have been my only option - to buy a set of 2.5" and grind them while turning on the car. That would have been - fun. But, here we are. Turned, and shot-blasted (or shot-peened?): They're 2.5% (200 grams) lighter now. The width of the friction-face is pretty much 6...

Did you see this thread: https://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/threads/steering-wheel-wants-to-turn-right-while-idling-steering-gear-adustment-or-front-end-alignment.87022/ Long story short - I also changed a seal to fix a leak. The steering shaft (worm shaft) seal. I didn't take much...

Uggh. I am such a dummy. I keep forgetting that my back shoes are 2" wide. It seems that there was a transition between '68 - '69 in terms of making 2.5" rear shoes the standard. I am going to have my rear drums checked, see if they need machining. This is one of them - seems pretty...

In the past couple days I've been looking to see where I can get new rear drums for my '67 Dodge Monaco. Drums all around, rear shoes are 2.5". Rock auto shows a few PN's (Dynamic friction, centric) but no stock. I call around locally and I give them some rock auto PN's for front and rear...

I think you would only need to disconnect 1 line. And have an assistant cut the engine when you notice no more oil is being dumped.

Not that I've ever tried it, but I've read that disconnecting one of the trans cooler lines at the rad and dumping it into a pail while the engine is running in neutral is the clean way to drain the transmission. I presume this also drains the TC?

Wasn't there a year-range where the torque converter did / didn't have a drain plug?

I think the practical options are going to be dexron 6 or ATF+4. I did the same thing recently and went with ATF+4 ($75 CAD for a 4.7 liter jug, had to buy 2 jugs). Do you plan on a full drain? Or just replacing what gets dumped when you drop the pan?