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I don't remember exactly but it's 10W-30. I'm thinking Quaker State 10W-30. I changed it this past June. I'll have to check it tonight

There might be some differences between the model year range, as to the mechanicals, but I somewhat doubt it. The length of the cables and placement of the drive units might change, but not the core motor items and switching, I suspect. IF these seat track units were listed in the Hollander...

Out of curiosity, what oil is in the engine? I bet a lot of people would like to have the problem of a 383 that runs too cold.

it appears that the metal bracket that the end of the clock spring is attached to has become detached from the back of the speedometer. Yesterday, I located this company and spoke with them about repairing the speedometer. I am going to send the entire instrument cluster to them to get it...

I have both of those pictured. Yes the Braun one is brighter and last longer but the other ones I use more often. What I like about both of these is LED style which is COB. The entire area lights up as opposed to little dots of light. Its not a big difference but for close up work I like COB...

I've made contact with the guy with the NOS stuff, I've asked only about '67 polara/monaco stuff, he got back to me with a circuit board for the left or right instrument cluster (2771388) with a price of $150 which is way out of line (I can get a small run of PC boards made for that price)...

Update. Pulled out the thermostat and it's working fine. My radiator fan is a non-clutch type, so it's always spinning/pulling air. Sat in my driveway, when it was 45F outside, and ran the car for 25 minutes and the thermostat never opened. Engine never reached 180F to open thermostat...

Welcome

No seal, snug fit.

Pressure wise, both ports are the same. If you unplug one of the wires of the switch, do the brake lights go off? If so, it is definitely a bad switch.

BUMP

BUMP

While i wait for my FSM to turn up i will have to ask some questions . The brake lights on my 1958 Dodge Custom Royal stay on if i leave the battery negative connected . Car isn't on the road yet so it isn't a problem just yet , but i would like to get it fixed . I found this diagram which shows...

Sure, here you go: Dropbox But only the switches with the joystick since my Imperial only has this style switches.

In case you haven't bought a fuel tank yet, I can attest to Van's as being a very good seller. I've bought a few tanks from him, most recently for my 1965 Imperial convertible.

I just went through this myself. I had a leaky steel line where someone had spliced in a union years ago and that was the source of my leak. I removed the old line and used it as a template. I remade a new steel line using 5/16 line, double flared the ends and added the connector ends, leak fixed!

Very nice car, especially like the colors! The brake booster is a Midland-Ross dual diaphragm, specific to Imperial and not found on lesser Mopars that used Bendix boosters. I've used Power Brake Exchange (Booster Dewey) in Mountlake Terrace (Seattle, WA) to rebuild my boosters for years...