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This is spot on. Especially if it has a rope seal that doesn't want to come out. Before removing anything major I would definitely follow the advice of these folks and triple check it is the rear main leaking!

I did, found it used on ebay.

Following cause one day I'd like to do the same. Please do keep us posted on your project!

If I recall correctly that is the one piece I couldn't remove when I rebuilt my heater box. I cleaned it up best I could without damaging where it mounts to the box. I found repairing and using the original heater box very satisfying once I figured out how to properly route the vacuum hoses that...

@RemCharger - How do you like the por15 engine enamel? Easy to apply? Did you brush or spray? It looks great in the pictures.

Finally had time this morning to pull the engine. I did not remove the transmission cross member but I should have and will before dropping it back in. With a little luck I'll have everything cleaned up and the front suspension rebuilt before spring.

This is exactly what I did for my '68 300. My horns barely made any sound. After turning the adjustment screws in and out a few times they started to work. After doing this a bit they now work fine. Be gentle and don't force it.

Unfortunately the Sneaky Pete did not work to remove the upper half of the rear main seal (it is a rope seal). It would only screw in about half way before seemingly bottoming out. I removed the rear crank cap to improve access but still unable to get the old seal out. I am now planning to...

Dang, guess my google search skills need work! I ordered the sneaky pete, will be here in a couple of weeks. Will report back with my results. Cleaning it all up once the seal is out will be another fun challenge!

Finally decided to tackle the rear main seal leak. I removed the steering linkage and was able to lift the engine a couple inches to remove the oil pan. After removing the rear main seal retainer I found the bolts used were too long which cracked the retainer on both sides. Now I am trying to...

In my first post of the thread below you can see the brass contacts of the "limit switch" that basically tell the motor to stop running when the doors open and close. I was able to bend these back to a working position and resolve the issue with new plastic gears. Headlight Cover Motor Repair

Definitely could be a ground issue as @Big_John stated. In my case, the limit switch inside the motor stopped working which lead to the plastic gear getting stripped because the motor kept trying to close the doors after they were closed, which sounded like knocking inside the motor. If you...

Yes, great point. On the second attempt to repair the leak I added UV dye and fixed the leaks from the speedometer cable, under the trans mount and around the dip stick. If you have a picture to elaborate on this rod that would be awesome. That said, I don't want to hijack this thread just...

My experience with my '68 300 has not been great when it comes to the transmission pan gasket. I have had the pan off several times to try and stop the leaks from the gasket. Cork, Mopar rubber, cork with a light coating of silicone, Mopar rubber gasket with silicone. Every time it has...

Nice ride, love that color combo! If you want to do something in a small budget maybe consider starting simple with an intake and a four barrel. Or, if your skill set allows, maybe you can find a 440 from a motor home at a junkyard and drop it in. I would also consider headers but they seem...

When I rewired my engine compartment I deleted the ballast resistor and replaced the coil with an MSD High Vibration coil which allowed me to mount it on it's side in the same location as the one it replaced. I mounted the GM HEI module to an aluminum heat sink with thermal paste using one of...

I recently removed and refurbished the wiring harness in my '68 300, including the engine harness and the dash harness. Some of the connectors looked okay but most of the wires and connectors had corrosion that required replacing. Based on the picture you posted of your ammeter, I wouldn't...

@straightjob Thanks for confirming! I have put a little over a thousand miles on the old girl since bringing her home from your place in October and she loves to drive!

This is probably the route I will go to keep the ride height close to what it is now.

Awesome. I like the look of a wider tire but I also like the rims I have. I was concerned the rear wheels might rub against the fender skirts. Thank you both for your expertise!