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Yes and no. It provides a better path for the amps to flow. The last thing you want are your amps, from whatever source rating they are, passing through a rusty old bulkhead connector of questionable condition. Then on top of that...through a 50 or 60 year old gauge. This provides a direct...

As much as it's almost sacrilegious to some to disturb and even replace the components of a classic car, I firmly believe if you do it right and take your time, you're only prolonging the life of the car. I actually took my Amp meter out and replaced it with a voltmeter... but you will never...

I can see the logic behind why you did this. By laws of current it makes perfect sense to drop the wire resistance as low as possible to get the most out of the AMP flow to do work (that's why the starter cranks faster). But I will say this... you've now removed the component's "built-in"...

Just about everything Boeing built is made to last. We said good-bye to our last 747-400s. It was tough man. The Queen of the Skies. Damn good airplane. Fuselage will live on in the -800, but mostly as long haul cargo

By the sounds of it, you were on either an L-1011, 707, 727, DC-10, DC-8 or 747. Minimum 3 engines for that experiment.

ahhh... My aviation brother... speakin' my language! HAHAHA! I was going to mention Flight vs Maintenance C/B's... but I thought best not to bore the piss out of everyone. LOL.

Circuit Breakers are used in aviation and homes as an immediate protection against over-stressing wires/components, fire, sparking, etc... it's not a perfect system as they can weld closed, get old.. etc. They are the same as fuses. They do the same thing. Main difference is they tend to be...

Definitely a must do on these cars. Takes the load out of the switch and places it where it should be... on the other side of the fire wall. If you haven't done so yet, do the ammeter by-pass as well. Sure it messes up the originality of the vehicle, but so does a massive ball of flames. I'll...

I did this as well on mine to find it was a bad VR. Just don't rev the motor too high as it won't regulate. The alt will just keep hammering out V/A unguarded the faster you rev

Could be your voltage regulator as well. Did you put a voltmeter on your battery while the car is running? If so, what was the reading? Should be 13.8 or thereabout. I had the same condition as you and it turned out to be the VR. Swapped it with a new style Electronic, and all was good...

Guys might scream at me for this...but you can use a bolt as well. Tighten the hell out of it and tape it up really well. I have mine like that now, but plan on soldeing them together in the near future

I ran mine on a relay. I have a switch hidden in the ashtray that allows me to kill the system. I have a Blue tooth amp mounted under the package tray in the trunk, no head. I found that works best to keep the original look of the interior intact. I also did the headlight relay upgrade and...

I only use it sparingly (like you mention) and on the non-metallic parts of all connectors that I want to keep water proof. I've never had an issue with it getting on connectors, but it's best to keep it thin if you do. Honestly, I've stuck with this method since day-1, so I never really tried...

Just saying... Don't be afraid to go further and do the headlight conversion as well. It all helps preserve the car for the long haul.

That's the same misconception of dielectric grease... some seem to think it's OK so slather it all over the connector thinking it will prevent rust... meanwhile it's non-conductive. Connectors need to be spotless clean for a minimum resistance connection.

That's high. Have you given any thought to swapping to solid state VR. Keeping mind that the original VR is setup to accept the original wiring. Now that it's seeing a clean source of power, it might be overstressed. If you've never seen what they look like inside, it's just a big coil and a...

True ..I forgot it will flow right from that spot. That other member had that issue last week and that got him home

When you pull out your instrument panel... disconnect the battery first... Then remove both leads to the ammeter, temp bolt them together and tape. Now see if you have power

Lol... Cbarge is faster then me!!

Do you have voltage passed the ammeter. Unless you've swapped the gauge yourself, or know that it was swapped before you bought it, it's still an ammeter. All the power of the entire car goes into that meter, then back out to the starter relay. Sounds like the ammeter crapped out and is...