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Been tackling this bit by bit, day by day. Will be documenting info that will hopefully be of use to anyone in the future that stumbles across my posts. Strut rods finally came out, I took off the front nuts first before tackling the rears, fronts needed a 24mm socket, while the rears needed a...

I'm fully aware of the squeaking and vibration transmission that poly bushings have, which is why I only wanted to use them where the sway bar bolts to the strut rod. Although that might also be a bad spot to put them, so I'm happy to settle with just replacing the square bushings where the sway...

Woohoo, it's been frigging hot so I've settled for just chipping away at this entire thing bit by bit each day. Slowly but surely. Completely loosened the adjusters and I was able to lift the upper arm to have plenty of room to take out the bump stops. Left one had some cracking but was still...

Are you talking about the adjusting nut? Or where the torsion bar actually goes through it? Maybe I'm missing something but the only attaching points are where the torsion bar sits, and where it connects to the spindle. Never mind - saw a video and there's a nut and stud on the inboard side of...

Not really concerned about the turning circle, it's a boat after all...comes with the territory. But great food for thought in the rest of your post

Oh yeah I definitely made sure that the stands were on the frame and not the suspension. I blasted the **** out of ALL threads with the pressure washer on the laser setting. Very clean and ripe for an overnight soaking with some ATF which works really well as a penetrant...50/50 acetone/ATF mix...

Firm Feel doesn't have a way to increase the steering ratio with an existing box do they? Unfortunately for me the RHD cars have mounting holes that don't line up with the LHD steering boxes, so something like a Borgeson box is out of the question. Was hoping to have a faster ratio and tighter...

Thanks, I did pore over the FSM to see if there was anything I missed. I just wasn't sure if there was something else that people experience during this procedure that the FSM doesn't mention etc. I do know that poly will transfer more vibration, which was why I only wanted it for the sway bar...

Alrighty, going to try to tackle this one. Practically everything that's rubber and mounted to the stub frame in some way are shot. Main questions I have are, does anyone make poly bushings for the sway bar-strut rod connecting brackets? I'm not going to install poly anywhere else, except maybe...

Is there a way to tell which bushing you need without having to take the leaf off the vehicle?

A slightly bent, long screwdriver is surprisingly useful. I remember finding one on top of a cupboard in a house, it's helped me quite a bit in my wrenching adventures. I'm sure for those here that are married, their other half will also know the benefits of a slightly bent, long screwdriver...

Well, zip ties are a temporary solution, and everyone knows that the most permanent solution is the temporary one :p

I think the hub is just machined to fit the bog standard firebird rotors. Right, makes sense

oops thanks for correcting me. less travel but with less pressure probably means it's much easier to modulate the pedal. Going from an 89 Toyota Cressida to a 18 Camry I thought the brakes on the Camry were touchy, then I got in the Plymouth and whoa boy lol. I thought it was rather interesting...

When I was hunting for rotors on Rockauto I did see that and note the diameter of the hole was almost the same size as the Durago BR5560 rotor that I got and ended up having machined, resulting in the total cost blowing out to even more than if I had just bought the Centric rotors straight from...

Wish I heard about AAJ earlier. The ECI brackets are great, but definitely put a dent in the wallet getting it, and getting the calipers and other hardware off rockauto could only help so much.

I've got that ECI brake kit sitting in my room right now, the biggest reasons for me picking this kit were the fact that you can retain the original spindle, and that there are EBC bluestuffs available in the D-52 pattern; I fully intend to take my barge out to the occasional "arrive and drive"...

It never gets old seeing just how many electrical gremlins go away simply by doing nothing else but cleaning up the grounds. I know OP wanted a stock look to it, but I can vouch for the FBO box, doing a 2 bbl to 4 bbl swap, engine starts and runs great, using it with a fresh mopar electronic...

Well it turns out two of those spots are on the left valve cover which aren't actually meant to take the grommets which makes things a bit easier. I'll check those out, thanks

Damn, only one left...and my 67 383 appears to have four spots for them ;-;