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  1. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Mancini Mancini Rear Main Seal, Rope
  2. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Finally got the motor back together enough to put oil in. I used a new 6 quart pan from 440source and the all-in-one windage tray gasket torqued to 100 inch pounds. Both very nice products. I then primed the engine to make sure I was getting oil through the valve train on both sides (I...
  3. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Had two nice days of warm weather so I turned my attention to painting the block. Learned a lot. I brushed on POR-15 Gray as the first coat and their Chrysler Turquoise as the top coat. It looks very nice. I had to sand the gray because I didn't have time/weather to get the top coat on before...
  4. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Pulling the 440 apart, taking my time best I can. It appears to be a 1973 block, stamped J 440 T and the casting says 73 albeit very hard to read. It has a forged crank with "six pack" rods (#2951908) although I've read that's not necessarily a pro or con, just making note of it. It has 213...
  5. M

    Seeking Advise on Rear Main Seal on 68 440

    This is spot on. Especially if it has a rope seal that doesn't want to come out. Before removing anything major I would definitely follow the advice of these folks and triple check it is the rear main leaking!
  6. M

    Time for the Heater Box Rebuild

    I did, found it used on ebay.
  7. M

    Gearvendor in a mid -70's C Body?

    Following cause one day I'd like to do the same. Please do keep us posted on your project!
  8. M

    68 heater box (no AC) question

    If I recall correctly that is the one piece I couldn't remove when I rebuilt my heater box. I cleaned it up best I could without damaging where it mounts to the box. I found repairing and using the original heater box very satisfying once I figured out how to properly route the vacuum hoses that...
  9. M

    Yet Another Chrysler Turquoise Engine Paint Thread....But Maybe The Last?

    @RemCharger - How do you like the por15 engine enamel? Easy to apply? Did you brush or spray? It looks great in the pictures.
  10. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Finally had time this morning to pull the engine. I did not remove the transmission cross member but I should have and will before dropping it back in. With a little luck I'll have everything cleaned up and the front suspension rebuilt before spring.
  11. M

    Horn repair worth the trouble - RESOLVED

    This is exactly what I did for my '68 300. My horns barely made any sound. After turning the adjustment screws in and out a few times they started to work. After doing this a bit they now work fine. Be gentle and don't force it.
  12. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Unfortunately the Sneaky Pete did not work to remove the upper half of the rear main seal (it is a rope seal). It would only screw in about half way before seemingly bottoming out. I removed the rear crank cap to improve access but still unable to get the old seal out. I am now planning to...
  13. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Dang, guess my google search skills need work! I ordered the sneaky pete, will be here in a couple of weeks. Will report back with my results. Cleaning it all up once the seal is out will be another fun challenge!
  14. M

    1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

    Finally decided to tackle the rear main seal leak. I removed the steering linkage and was able to lift the engine a couple inches to remove the oil pan. After removing the rear main seal retainer I found the bolts used were too long which cracked the retainer on both sides. Now I am trying to...
  15. M

    Headlight motor

    In my first post of the thread below you can see the brass contacts of the "limit switch" that basically tell the motor to stop running when the doors open and close. I was able to bend these back to a working position and resolve the issue with new plastic gears. Headlight Cover Motor Repair
  16. M

    Headlight motor

    Definitely could be a ground issue as @Big_John stated. In my case, the limit switch inside the motor stopped working which lead to the plastic gear getting stripped because the motor kept trying to close the doors after they were closed, which sounded like knocking inside the motor. If you...
  17. M

    Transmission gaskets.

    Yes, great point. On the second attempt to repair the leak I added UV dye and fixed the leaks from the speedometer cable, under the trans mount and around the dip stick. If you have a picture to elaborate on this rod that would be awesome. That said, I don't want to hijack this thread just...
  18. M

    Transmission gaskets.

    My experience with my '68 300 has not been great when it comes to the transmission pan gasket. I have had the pan off several times to try and stop the leaks from the gasket. Cork, Mopar rubber, cork with a light coating of silicone, Mopar rubber gasket with silicone. Every time it has...
  19. M

    A lil ? 68 300 with a 70 383. Needs tlc

    Nice ride, love that color combo! If you want to do something in a small budget maybe consider starting simple with an intake and a four barrel. Or, if your skill set allows, maybe you can find a 440 from a motor home at a junkyard and drop it in. I would also consider headers but they seem...
  20. M

    68 Polara HEI Conversion

    When I rewired my engine compartment I deleted the ballast resistor and replaced the coil with an MSD High Vibration coil which allowed me to mount it on it's side in the same location as the one it replaced. I mounted the GM HEI module to an aluminum heat sink with thermal paste using one of...
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