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My truck was a semi-daily and full time weekend driver doing a lot of hauling and towing. Another vehicle was a daily for seven years, but then semi-retired. Some of the others were daily drivers in each one's turn, but shifted to hobby use, and were rebuilt at some point after that, or swapped...

As is stated in the 1958 Service Manual: "The horn relay is electrically connected to the ignition switch and does not operate when the switch is in the OFF position". So, the horns in at least Chryslers and Imperials don't work unless the key is turned to "ON". I would venture all late '50s...

Greetings, thank you ;)

Join me in welcoming @bonzelite to FCBO.

The horn should have power with the key off unless Imperials are different. It does sound like something is up in the column.

...and not one that he owned, but one that he still did own. And he lived about 10 min from me, where I had lived almost 15 years. Yet I had heard *zero* about a phantom Hurst nearby. So we drove to his house, took some pics, and chatted for a bit. He wanted to sell the car, IIRC it had about...

Unlike home audio, car radio amps never were rated for "levels of harmonic distortion" at peak power. Which means their rated output is probably optimistic for getting clean signals from the amp itself. As cars have become quieter, the quality of the sound output has become more critical...

As for the acc. pump, in my case, it was a daily driver. I was using the blue cups out of a new kit. I then sourced new replacements, all which had the same issue with the aluminum cylinder. It was as if the cup was sticking to the aluminum, and the edge of the cup appeared to have aluminum...

lets call it sheepdeep from now on.

On my '58 Imperial, I managed to get 2 of the 3 horns working. However, they were constantly staying on when the key was turned on. I thought it originally was the relay, so I bought a new one. Still constantly on horn. Next I looked at the switch in the steering wheel. I removed it and checked...

1965 Chrysler 300 L Convertible - Rare 4-Speed 413cu / 360hp - Frank's Classic Cars Good color combo and cosmetics look really good on this one. Seatcovers look nice and fresh. The brighter-red inserts on the doorpanels are not correct, but they look great, at least. Perhaps a prior owner liked...

Join me in welcoming @syd to FCBO.

In my experience with questionable batteries, the computerized parts-store testers can give false 'goodness'. I once had a battery that tested good, CCAs were great - battery would need jumped if the car wasn't driven at least 1/week. I installed new alternator, VR, fixed wiring connections...

The early rubber components can be attacked by the ethanol in E10 gasoline, especially if the carburetor sits inactive a lot. The same happens for fuel pump diaphragms and rubber hoses, although usually to a lesser extent. The o-rings or x-rings that seal the jets to the upper body are the most...

The Hurst is now available as a a 3D printed 1:25 scale kit. Assembly required. Now I have to teach myself how to airbrush the paint scheme.

Magnet size is related to the speaker's wattage capacity, but a speaker will not take beyond what the radio can supply. (unless you use a speaker whose impedance is too low, then it can overload the radio's output bits) Sensitivity is the critical spec in an application like this. #1 and #2...

The big Mopar show at the Dakota country fairgrounds May 30th -June 1st. All the cool kids will be there. Home - Midwest Mopars in the Park

Excellent advice from Herman:

Damn, only one left...and my 67 383 appears to have four spots for them ;-;

I had a 1973 5-pin ECU go bad. Resulted in starting problems, cranking no start no spark. Problem was intermittent. Replaced ECU. Problem stopped.