Search results for query: *

Hmm...I figure this is a related thread for this - has anyone here dropped their gearbox for a clutch change? Would a TKX fit without having to bash or cut/weld the tunnel (aside from maybe the shifter hole)?

I recently overhauled the front suspension bits on my 67 and while I haven't worked on too many cars, I agree with this in that it was definitely a lot easier than I expected. Took a lot of time, but progress was fairly steady and there was a lot of room to work with given that my car is just...

I've seen a few instances where the workshop manual insists on bench bleeding the master, but the master got installed dry and was then bled without any other issues. I did it on my old cressida like this and never had problems that way as well.

Toyota still sell the rubber inserts if you know the part number. But most of their wipers use a 6.5mm claw width, I can't remember if their bigger vehicles/SUVs like the tundra, 4runner etc. use 8.5mm or 6.5mm. But if anyone here has a toyota and can confirm the model they have uses 8.5mm, I...

Oh man that is so cool. Do you have any young kids? They're 100% going to get a kick out of discovering it if you haven't told them about it, or give hints about a little hidey hole

But the paper itself is just like a regular piece of A4 paper right? or paper of that kind of composition?

Geez...how hard or thick must the paint be to not even dent from a goddamn punch?

You probably already know this, but Imperials are banned from demolition derbies because they're built like tanks. Chrysler really was something else in the 60s.

Fun with a 20 tonne press: I tried to use a piece of galvanised pipe, but the widest size bunnings sells is 25mm - this is too narrow to fit around the pivot shaft once that's been pressed into the bushing, so don't bother going there. They do sell 30mm pieces, but they're at least a metre long...

On a related note, the bushings for the bracket that connects the sway bar to the strut rod - if you buy aftermarket ones there's a good chance they don't have a slit in them, and unless you can fab up some sort of sleeve, it's damn near impossible to push them on without seriously damaging...

Well...there IS another way. But it's not pretty: I think Citroen or one of the other French manufacturers also did some similar, reverse rake C/D pillars. I had a 94 Camry wagon in the same colour as above, I still miss it. The thing would probably outlive cockroaches. The V6 made it...

@Justin Plant that makes sense, don't want potential customers to mistake it for the competition! @CBODY67 Oh yeah that sheet metal is t h i c k. The way these cars were built definitely wouldn't fly today with what we know now about crash physics though. New cars tend to sacrifice themselves to...

Wide at top, narrow at bottom. Subconsciously caught it after reading a blog post delving into it when I got curious and tried finding more info about it. I reckon it suits wagons a lot more than the sedans, it looks great on your wagon.

ha, time for a swap meet with someone that has the inverted c pillar and wants something like yours

Yeah those look pretty slick. But for me I really like the four door hard tops. I know in the US four doors have a stigma with them, the coupes tend to command higher prices in auctions, must be a cultural thing. In Oz there's not as much value placed on whether it's a two or four door, unless...

I dunno...I feel like it wouldn't make too much of a difference given that these didn't really have rollover protection in mind, unlike new cars now which have ridiculously fat pillars not helped by the airbag assemblies inside them.

I'm talking about this: See how the C pillar goes from wide to narrow, top to bottom? Does anyone know the history behind it? Personally, I've never been a fan of these kinds of C pillars, they always just made the cars look weird to me. Always thought they'd look better if they were narrow at...

Pic of the final result: I don't know if these can be cold chiselled out without having to drill out the weld, but if they can that would be the preferable route - whoever welded these particular brackets together didn't really align them, so the hole I drilled out in the separated bit is...

Update: WOOHOO. Workshop buddies used a very thin cold chisel to split apart the rest of the spot welds. Apparently put up a fight though, "wasn't easy" was what I was told so I owe them beer and food.

Well POO. I tried to drill out what I thought were the spot welds with a 10mm drill bit. Drill press made short work of it...but it's still stuck together tight. I had to slice out one flange of the bushing then force it out with a hammer and a flathead screwdriver, allowing me to at least take...