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The cruise lever (tilt-tele) is difficult to find (and $250+-). You may want to do a physical check of yours? Or just try a new fuse and see if it still blows.

Are you looking for the turn signal switch, or the cruise (Auto-Pilot) stalk and switch?

They are, in fact, the same clip. I have rebuilt hundreds of Chrysler and Imperial window switches. The clips in the first pic have been bent., which is common.

That's from something shorting out and melting the rheostat (spring). Hopefully you haven't bypassed your fuse.

I put mine in a toaster oven. On high for 20+ minutes. Small putty knife and patience.

You MAY have 2 or more issues. The 1967 (ONLY) headlight switch may need rebuilding? They get corrosion internally. The dimmer switch for sure needs rebuilding. Check to see if the pink wire leading into the headlight switch has power (it should be hot at all times). Is it just the dash lights...

The kit works in Borg made clocks only, per the eBay listing. The original poster has a GT / General Time movement. It is usually stamped on the rear of the clock case. "Borg" "G.T." (General Time) Or "Westclox" are the three 1960 and later manufacturers for U.S. cars

Have you checked for power going in to the switch? Black is power in for the headlights, pink is power in for all the other lamps.

Hi Rich. I'm now in Oklahoma. The switch is still covered under my lifetime warranty. Feel free to mail it to me so I can see what's going on.

Smoked...... I have more than a dozen like that.

That happens on GT / General Time / Westclox clocks when the car battery gets low on voltage. It's too low to "fire" the coils and they overheat. I have a few NOS mechanisms I swap in when I run into this. I'm not a fan of the quartz conversions. I have a box with 5-6 defective ones in it from...

No need to purchase a headlight switch. The knob from the flasher and defrost switches will swap over, if you have spares.

Nice pic....lol (it's one of my rebuilt ones) Did yours break internally (just flops up and down), or externally (the stem)?

Works on both AM and FM, but the switch is touchy. Chrome is nice, but has some minor pits Lens and face are nice. Lens has a flaw to the right of "88" I have made no attempt to freshen it up as it works fine. Wiring is intact These pre-1970 (?) factory radios are mono, not stereo. $325...

It really sounds like a weak feed. Either weak 5.5v from the limiter, or the 12v feed to your limiter. You will have to check your factory service manual to see where the feed comes from (ignition switch?)

The very first step would be to see if you actually have power going into the switch on the black wire (key on run or acc) The resistance between the terminal marked "B" (battery in) and all others should be close to zero when cycling the switch (unplugged). The high resistance you are seeing...

Works on both AM and FM, but the switch is touchy. Chrome is nice, but has some minor pits Lens and face are nice. Lens has a flaw to the right of "88" I have made no attempt to freshen it up as it works fine. Wiring is intact These pre-1970 (?) factory radios are mono, not stereo. $375...

You can send me a private message here. Have you taken a good look at your wiring?

Now that you're home take a very good look at your dash wiring / fuse box wiring / firewall junction. And the wiring plug at the headlight switch. The floor hi-low switch and plug will cause the headlight problem, but will not affect the dash lights.

Very nice work! And yes, worth rebuilding. Or as a core!