Search results for query: *

I wonder if they've ever thought about looking for a wrecked Dodge Phoenix of the same year and using the dash parts to convert it to RHD. Then again, the steering box would be a problem, since they were mounted closer to the firewall and everything steering related, sans the outer tie rods, was...

I think these have been around for a while; I bought my first deflecting beam on Gumtree second-hand and it looked like it was made in the 80s or so. Sold it and got this one because I got sick of the non-ratcheting head. You guys also have them but they don't seem to be as popular, Powerbuilt...

Can confirm, took about 3 months for mine. Was an agonising wait only alleviated by the fact that I had other stuff on the car I could work on at the same time. I'm probably just being impatient though...good things take time.

I would if it were an old clicky one, but this is one of the fancier deflecting beam wrenches: It's a different take on the older beam wrenches - these have the very useful feature of being able to hear and feel the click. Accuracy is rated to ±2% whereas the cheaper clickers were ±4%. Very...

Me personally, and especially if you plan on driving it real fast...Vitour Galaxy R1s 215/70R15s in the above pic mounted on the front of my 67 Fury. These are a chinese brand but before you raise your pitchforks... - As far as I'm aware, they're the only 15 inch >65 profile tyre I've seen that...

Quite an old thread. But weight redistribution can have a pretty noticeable effect too. I remember reading an article made back in 2012 or so from the same guys that used to write for the 90s tuner mags at their peak, about the effects of weight redistribution, simply relocating the battery...

Yeah they're 3/8 studs. I see repro sets for sale but at the moment I don't feel like paying 200 bucks for a set. Honestly 30 seems waaaay too high, and they weren't even that rusty either. I tried torquing up the others but it felt like the studs were stretching, usually you can feel when...

On the 67 Fury, the front hanger bracket for the leaf springs - are the nuts meant to be torqued to 30 ft-lb? The FSM is a bit confusing on that. I tried to torque it up to 30 and snapped a stud... I just got a similar nut and bolt as a substitute but I got paranoid of snapping all four so I...

That's totally understandable, there's a huge unknown in such parts. @donfury the video in question, worth a watch. Screwdriver trick at 6:50:

ehh I think that's nitpicking at this point. I'll take organised wiring looms any day over rats nests of spaghetti wiring. Brake booster teeing into the PCV valve made me laugh though.

Never seen a 67 Fury with a full 360° horn ring, that's pretty cool. The RV2 compressor is pretty cool, it's basically a V2 engine on top of a V8 engine lol. mymopar.com has service manuals for these, the best resource you can get besides decades of hands-on experience from the guys on this...

Yep, aluminum hub and 3/8" thick mounting bracket for the caliper.

Yeah, it was the ECI brake kit. EC-769CK. Very easy to install.

That's why I'm selling them for 50 bucks. Mind you, we ship out enough stuff that I can get discounted rates as a business customer.

Pair of front drum assemblies 1967 Plymouth Fury. I just unbolted the entire thing from the spindle as part of an upgrade to disc brakes so it's got everything inside. Bearings look ok but would be a good time to replace. Spindle nut washer can be included but it's used. You'll need to get your...

Got a set of five 1/2-20 left hand thread wheel studs and their matching lug nuts, removed from the rear left wheel of a 1967 Plymouth Fury. Best to use a thread chaser as they were a bit hard to start the nuts on by hand. If these aren't sold by February next year I'm taking them and a pair of...

Look into getting a dash cam with parking mode and a rear cam (often called 'dual channel'). Mine paid for itself when some moron wasn't paying attention, merged in behind me and love tapped me while we were waiting at a light. Pulled over into a side street because I hate it when people just...

The C body ammeters are more than capable of handling the current a C body will see, and then some. The best thing to do is bypass the bulkhead connector, that is a definite weak spot. Thanks to 72RoadRunnerGTX for showing us that in a previous thread that covered the ammeter bypass. Headlight...

That's great to hear, and I'm not being sarcastic either. At this point in time though, if you want to stay with a carb the CC is pretty damn great. Even if you don't want the auto-tune function, they sell a lite version that's just the data logger and gauges. For 340 bucks it's extremely cheap.

There's often a noticeable bump in power going from PI to DI. But for me the carbon buildup in the intake isn't worth it. Port injection forever.