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My father bought a used '71 just before the '72s hit the show rooms with 13K miles on it for half that price (paid a little over $4K). Only option difference was cloth vs leather seating. It's 440 and 727 is in my '70 Challenger now.

If you pull the box, the core may be repairable at a radiator shop.

I do not have a part number. The picture shows two UCA cam bolts, nuts and washers circled in blue. I need to replace the washers. This is on a '71 Imperial, but is likely the same for '69 to '73.

Would have loved to do this trip. But I'm several months away from having her back on the road... Being in Charlottesville (actually Earlysville), it's a short drive to Culpeper. Maybe next time!

I fitted my '71 Imperial with power door locks when it did not have that option. I did this with all stock parts and wiring. I did not add remote activation, though. I believe it could be possible to add some form of remote activation control to the power door switch harness in the driver's...

Does anyone have a source for these? Mine have broken (all but one), need 4. They are for 5/8 inch bolts, OD is 1.25 inch, thickness about 3/16 inch.

There is an adjustment on the steering box to take up play in the gear. If that was adjusted, your steering could feel stiffer. There is also a valve body on the steering box that if moved can cause the wheel to be off center and if really misadjusted cause the wheel to turn by itself.

The tab is the wiper stop/park position. Your blades should park against it. Problem is the blades typically do not slide over the lower windshield trim. Grab your blade and pull it toward the tab. It should sit there comfortably.

The data plate on my '71 Imperial is on top of the radiator support (driver side of center).

Yes, I had to remove the upper control arm bumper to get the ball joint stud threads far enough through to get the washer and nut on.

That worked, thanks!

I've done some suspension cleaning that involved replacing upper ball joints. The engine is out of the car, and I want to reattach the upper ball joints to the steering knuckle. Any tips on doing this without the weight of the engine in the car? When I lift the lower control arms with a floor...

Your only option without gutting the AC system is to get one of the Performance Analysis servos. Any servo you find used, will cost similar to the PA servo. A used servo is likely to leak soon after installation unless it is the PA servo. I also have a '71 Imperial and have the PA servo and...

If the rheostat is an issue, sometimes spinning the dimmer control back and forth a number of times can make it work again. Issue is corrosion on the contacts.

Krazy glue works well on rubber.

Tilt/Tele levers are straight and have a threaded base whereas the non-tilt/tele levers have a bend and a screw hole for a retainer screw.

Isn't that the shoulder harness buckle? The shoulder harness is mounted on the ceiling above the door and is held by clips when not in use.

I'm doing an engine compartment detail. Engine is out and completed. I want to paint the wheelhouses, so both are going to come out. I want to brush all the rust scale from the frame and make it look nice. I may replace upper control arm bushings at this time, too. The stud in question...

I've removed all attaching hardware, but the front lip of the wheelhouse is over a stud in the subframe cross member and under the radiator support. It looks like the only way to remove the wheelhouse is to remove the radiator support (more than what I want to do). I initially thought the lip...

Does this car have the vacuum actuated automatic parking brake release when putting car in drive or reverse?