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…which is fine if you can guarantee that the only loads on the system will be the ones you plan and deliberately induce. But you can't, because stuff happens. Let a cell quietly die in your battery one fine day, and now your alternator will be putting out as much current as it can, even though...

That depends if you were or weren't smart enough to take that circuit out of operation.

This is a super-bad idea. There is just no way of wishing around it; your present plan is a keen recipe for extensive electrical system damage. I think your relative lack of understanding of the subject is making you much more confident in this decision than you should be. Here's another bit of...

Also available at NAPA as Echlin № DL-6123, or from Standard Ignition as № TW-78C. There used to be a guy out of Illinois, name of Koldos, who made the planet's best replacement cams for the '62-'67 turn signal switch. Much better plastic material than original or any of the aftermarket ones...

Stand down; SM-13 is indeed the correct cam for the OE '62-'67 switches. Some people do. :D

Do yourself and your car a large favour: install an A/C compressor clutch relay, so the switches in the A/C unit only have to cope with the few milliamps of current a relay takes to operate, rather than running the numerous-amps clutch current back and forth through the firewall and...

Correct, because Chinese junk. Do the HEI upgrade instead.

Not a direct answer to your question, but read this to understand the weirdness in '70/'71 fuel tanks + caps, and maybe figure out how your aftermarket tank's vents should be hooked up.

You just carefully pry the cam off the switch body with two wide flat screwdrivers. Then you carefully remove the switch shuttles, one at a time, taking careful note of which way round they are (can make a dot at the top with a Sharpie to make it easier to keep track), then you use Q-tips and...

You just carefully pry the cam off the switch body with two wide flat screwdrivers. Then you carefully remove the switch shuttles, one at a time, taking careful note of which way round they are (can make a dot at the top with a Sharpie to make it easier to keep track), then you use Q-tips and...

Okeh, finally I got all the ducks in a row and shot 'em. By "ducks" I mean the 100-per-cent solution to the unavailability of № 1095 bulbs: As you can see, it's an adapter to use a type W5W or № 168 bulb, the all-glass peanut type. These bulbs put out the same amount of light/draw the...

The V2 (9.45 CID) was used in A- and B-body applications. B-C-D-bodies got EPR valves in '62; A-bodies not 'til '74.

V2: 9.45 cubic inch displacement. RV2: 10.5 cubic inch displacement.

Speaking as a customer of Leanna's (CudaChick1968): she makes powder walk, talk, dance and sing. Seriously!

There is no off-the-shelf bulb that fits and works in a Superlite. You can cram something in there, but it certainly won't work right. Options are either to find a NOS bulb or do like this. There's a variety of options for better-than-original headlamps, but there's a mountain of garbage on the...

Sale pending.

I wish they were in somebody else's garage.

At a time like this I wish my lifelong fixation were…I donno, birdwatching that only requires notebooks and binoculars, or something like that. But noooooo, it had to be car lights. Bulky, breakable car lights. I am dying a thousand deaths (or so…I stopped counting) at what I cannot keep and...

I am moving, the new place is much smaller, and I can't keep most of the goodies I've collected over the years. So: holy flaming snotballs, it's a Super-Lite stash sale. $275 gets you four used Super-Lites—three on 1969 brackets and one on a 1970 bracket, and one brand new Super-Lite and 1969...

Good quality heavy-duty chrome Sun timing light made in Sunnyvale, California, USA. Plus generic-but-plenty-good-enough vacuum gauge and 12v test light. $30 for all three; postage from Seattle. Send me a PM.