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That was my thinking as well. The sheet metal screws get loose where they go through the firewall. A star washer that bites into the paint can help, but I found that running a ground wire was just good insurance regardless.

The mounting tabs of the regulator MUST be grounded. It looks like clean paint underneath that regulator, and while it looks nice and clean and new, it will simply make for a challenge in getting a good ground. It is worthwhile running a separate ground wire from the mounting tab to a known...

Ahhh - it looks like it might be there, but I'm not sure. As a part, the block off is fairly easy to add - just snaps in place. Console's top plate just doesn't look right to me... (quoting Red Skelton) :lol:

Yeah - the shifter handle boss would be on the other side of the column towards the middle of the car... I could not see a picture of it.

They don't? Huh - learn sumfin' new every day!

The rubber part is called a coupler. Available at Summit Lares Corporation 220 Lares Steering Couplers | Summit Racing

Check the condition of the rubber coupling near the firewall at the bottom of the column. It can be cracked and contribute to a LOT of play.

Correct - I neglected to say that there is a backing plate that will be part of the swap - one should get that plate as well as the power brake pedal assembly.

Nicely done!!

Yay!!

It's not challenging - one should swap out the pedal assembly too because the leverage ratio for a manual pedal assembly is much greater, however I have heard that it's just fine using a manual pedal with a booster. I have no personal experience with the retrofit, but everything if sourced...

Yeah, I saw that - however, never say never with Mopar! Lol...

Did your 300L not have the badge on it, Tom? On the storage bin door? I didn't see a badge on that wagon's console lid, although the lids are easy to swap out. Different trims on the top plate of course (wood grain and other finishes depending on the model), as automatics got a centrally...

Looks great!!

Ah - I'd like to see the steering column from the right hand side - to see if it has a shifter handle boss still there... console looks "modified" and perhaps it needed some love. Neat car nonetheless.

The link doesn't work...

Nice!!

Ah - kind of like the refrigerant known as Duracool. I find it works very well.And I use less of it than R134A charging. Far cheaper too.

80% of charge weight may be what works in some systems, but as far as I know it generally is less - as I noted above. Haven't tried HC12 yet.

Whatever system is retrofitted into our C bodies, whether it be a Sanden and such, OR outfitting an RV2 system to run on modern refridgerants, the key is not to overcharge the system. For a converted RV2 system for which it's intended to use R134A, the system needs roughly 50 - 60 % of the...