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"Town & Country" was the model name for Chrysler-brand station wagons. Not used by other Chrysler divisions to imply "station wagon".

Driver Side (left) tail light bezel for 69 Fury III/Sport/VIP in very good driver condition, includes mounting hardware. Some pitting but mostly minor and/or in out of the way places. All stud threads in good shape no bends or breaks. $60 Willing to ship at buyers expense. Located: Verona, WI...

Seems like 1969 was the first use of the GM/Saginaw power steering pump? IF so, the part where the cap screws onto will be wider side-to-side under the cap's (smaller) contact area. Other pumps Chrysler used has completely round "tops" in that area. The Saginaw pump cap is plastic, with a...

wire from "upstream" (power feed from ign/key on) side to Choke +

Holley used to sell a "Thermistor" to put into the gtround circuit for the electric choke. It varied the current to ground by the temperature of the engine itself rather than the ambient air temp around the choke coil. Sounded like a good theory, but I could tell no difference, so I unhooked...

with key on should get 12.x V here.

Don't draw your relay secondary power from the battery or starter relay if still running the factory dash mounted ammeter, should draw that power from the alternator directly.

Reach out to Frank Parks of MoparRestos for assistance with that cap. 7068572832

"Gas shocks" raise the ride height very little. Same with the "coil over" rear "Load Leveler" shocks. Shackles do NOT work on Chrysler rear springs, the main leaf gets bent down rather than raise the car. You CAN put more pre-load on the front torsion bars, though, but that also increases the...

To connect the Edelbrock electric choke to power, do the following: Wire the electric choke negative terminal to the carburetor body, or other ground, as shown in the following image: Wiring Choke Directly to Ignition RUN Wire the positive terminal into the Ignition RUN circuit of the...

There's a lot to like about that one. The seat bottoms look like they need new foam, but I kind of like the inserts not being vinyl. I like the Rallye wheels too. $11K is a great price, even if it needs a few things, but the "fair" description has me wondering what's up.

make sure you are not logged into your paypal account. Many others do just what I explained without a problem.

You are correct and thinking about it, the voltage would drop even more to the coil as the load would be increased. (Ohm's Law) So... Don't connect it at the coil. Brain fart on my part.

Looks like a T-code to me. For sale on FB with a brief description: "In good condition and runs good."

Thank you @saforwardlook for posting the fender tag of CH23U1C118626 -- what a car, and what a story!

Thank you for posting CP47T7D240971 (if I read correctly). Enjoy in good health! PS: Interesting acquisition story -- how did you get the title, if no one ever claimed it?

I bought a few of these from Digikey in the past year with the intent on using it for headlights, maybe also the power seat unit. Was about $5 each. Haven't actually mounted them yet. The integrated automotive-style fuse is what I think is useful here. Can use any heavy-gauge wire you want...

Thank you very much!

Here’s the schematic for the head light relay’s, these may be a little different if you have headlight doors. 68 Dodge Polara I used the factory color and codes for my wiring and labels on the schematic. L4 is the circuit. 16V* is 16 gauge Violet wire with tracer. See color code on schematic.

You keep mentioning the dimmer switch. Was only one relay installed for the low beams and no relay for high beams? You should have two relay’s, one for low beam and one for high beam. (sorry if I didn’t read far enough back if this was already covered) Also dimmer switches after years of full...