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These are 1970 Sport Fury. Do your wheel bearings have identification numbers stamped on them?

You caught me. LOL. I ordered a right side mirror that turned out to be a left side mirror. Installed it and said, "Oh ****." Paid a lot more for an NOS correct right side mirror. Used the glue trick on the ball. Corrected the pictures in my post above. :rofl:

Welder guy found my thread. See post below.

Looks like mine takes the short base. That eliminates 1970 Fury convertible. No points for Ben Right side mirror on right, Left side on left

Is that a Dewalt Heat Gun? What model? How did you reattach the glass?

Great Car! With the stubborn drum, sometimes you can put a small screw driver through the adjustment slot of the backing plate to push the lever away from the adjuster and then use a separate flat blade screw driver through the same slot to back off the adjuster. Recommend doing this on a day...

Welcome to the forum, Tommy. In answering a want ad, you really need to post pictures. Look forward to seeing your car.

Looks good. More pictures would be better!

So did you order the whole lock/latch assembly with backing plate included?

If it's like 1970, the door latch engages with this, which attaches to the dash shell above the door The 1970 lock extends into the latch

Cross hatch and Clean cylinder walls indicate a recent rebuild. Hope it's a good find!

Anything is possible. Are there any stamped numbers on top of the pistons? Are there ring ridges at the top of the cylinders? You can measure amount piston below deck with a deck bridge like this. Summit or Wallace Racing have a compression calculator.

Remember to check all passages. I use an air gun on an air compressor hose. I once rebuilt a Holley 2-barrel 3 times because of a clogged air bleed passage. Finally, I stuffed a piece of coathanger up one of the passages and out came all this gray/black carbon that looked like granulated gun...

You have a cast crank, so doubt it's a factory HP motor. Windage tray and purple cam indicate that someone tried to upgrade the engine. 1973 non-HP engines had low compression, ballpark 8.0:1. That engine is not going to have any torque until you raise compression to at least 9.0:1. Advise...

KRL (Tapered Roller Bearing) The KRL shear test uses a tapered rolling bearing in a cup fitted to a four ball instrument. Load is applied to the bearings as they are rotated at a certain RPM for a specified length of time. The test is typically run for 20 hours. KRL is considered to be one of...

-In other words, you are saying that Chrysler recommended customers put garbage in Chrysler transmissions? -If that's the case, how did our cars survive in the 1960s and 1970s under high stress Police use? NASCAR? NHRA? -ATF+2 did not become available until 1980, how did our cars survive until...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1960340587903922/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aa840e9de-1867-4d50-b2ba-9572f97dc064 Here's a "barn find" $8000 no title and the car's been sitting 30 years outside. :rofl:

Dexron 3 was factory recommended in 1972. I have used Dexron 3 with good performance in a 1968 727 that I rebuilt. It's behind a 1969 440. You will pay more for ATF+4, although it's fine for your car.

With the stuff around the grill, the fake continental spare tire, and the junky looking add-on gauges in the dash, this one can stay in Pakistan.

I am rebuilding a 440 now. I think $4000 is lower than you'll have to pay for quality work.