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As others have said, rust and unique or hard to find model year parts are primary concerns on a 57ish year old car. If the car is complete and original there is almost nothing that can't be done/fixed. Specific trouble spots I had on a 69 convertible is cowl rot and the rear well channel. Those...

Unless you go to the sealed bearing (aka "Green Mfr Bearing"). and in anticipation of folks saying your can't run those on the street, please see Cass' article on his webpage; Why Green Bearings? - Quality Body Shop Drivetrain

Also, if you are using the tapered ("Timken") bearings and do not have the spacer/thrust block between the axles you will not be able to adjust those/put tension on the adjuster.

See Inset in this picture - there should be an adjuster on the passenger side. I see you are a new member, if you haven't already, it's a good idea to go an download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your year/model. They are free at; Service Manuals – MyMopar

Let's do it when the weather isn't trying to kill us :)

what year 8.75? Tapered bearings or rollers ("Green" Manufacturing)?

IMO - once I realized (and started practicing) this it was a game-changer. It's like when your stuck in the mud/snow, sometimes you have to backup to go forward. It's counterintuitive but sometimes tightening a stuck bolt will free it. Don't go crazy, just looking to get some movement. Also...

Not Mine! If i were looking to build or resurrect another rusty one I'd start here. For Sale: 1969 Plymouth Fury in Phoenix, Arizona

Plus, unless you're worried about the date codes on the glass, you can get round mirror stock for cheap. Perhaps not auto grade bu Round Mirror 5" I think one of us has our mirrors on wrong side! Another thing I've noticed is that in '69 (at least) Mopar didn't adhere to the normal L/Driver...

No, I'll have to look into that. I think I've heard of it before, kinda private place though, like I'd need an appointment?

Bonus points if someone can tell me what application uses the long base 69-70 Plymouth mirrors! :)

It's a Wagner "FURNO 300" (Pardon Our Interruption ) - nothing special. One guy said he heated up his mirror in a toaster oven LOL. My spouse would NOT be happy about that, I'm sure. I haven't attached the glass (I might need it for the mirrors i intend to use) but will use the 3M mastic...

Looking for either *information or seat backs (or even a complete bench seat if i have too) for 69 Fury convertible. I want to add headrests to my early build (Oct. 1968) that does not have factory installed headrests. Headrests were mandated sometime in CY 1969 (vehicles made after March '69...

My side mirrors have been loose for years. not terrible but you can predict/watch them fold in - pretty much whenever you hit 60-65 MPH or any other kind of strong headwind. I tried superglue on the ball a few times and that works for a while and it's easy. Another suggested simple fix I've read...

I find a few threads on this topic (like below) but didn't find any confirmation that the headrest tubes/framework were in all the Fury seat frames in the 69 model year. My car did not originally have headrests. It is an Oct 68 (Halloween! (A31)) production date - before headrests were made...

I'm finding this might actually be P/N 3847940 (also also s/a or superseded by 33847443 / 3846303 / 3780734 / 3780737 / 4261306). This same switch also came in black (plastic??) lever. Anyway, mystery solved.

This only has a partial part number as far as i can tell; "940 109" and what appears to be a date code (or maybe some kind of batch code??) on the other side ("061600"). It's a four terminal switch and still has bits of plastic that broke off in the mounting screws. I've been going through my...

I ordered a couple of S64 insulators but haven't tried them out. They're really close so "we'll see." I appreciate the offer/follow-up! More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S64

Thanks for the info on current draw - very timely! I have a new blower motor on order I was going to bench test but my new DC Amp meter arrived first. :). I put the clamp on the blower motor wire yesterday and got readings of (about/from memory) 8.4A on high, 5.4A on medium, and 3.9A on low...

Mine is currently leaking there. I've heard you can do that in the car (remove tail shaft housing or cut that little tab and then use a magnet to carefully pull that shaft out just enough to get a new o-ring on. You have to back-off band tension and it would be even easier with the pan down and...