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This complaint about Holley carburetors still circulated widely during the daze of my adolescence, the 1970s.

.... Not really. The MODERN poisons aren't so BAD as the OLD POISONS. You forgot to mention TIN, which, like LEAD is a Group IV ELEMENT!!! If you want to understand WHY THESE METALS POISON CARBON BASED LIFE FORMS SO, LOOK AT THE PERIODIC TABLE OF ELEMENTS!! Never mind the FUD about the FACT...

One would do well to look at the old specs for running high octane fuel in our old engines. If an engine has been built for low octane mid-1970s or worse, modern fuel, then modifying carburetor jets, timing et al would be advisable. High octane does well with high compression, which "smog...

I use bolt adhesives ONLY on WORN threads in the block which after chasing out debris, I've determined to be missing enough original iron as to warrant a LITTLE extra adhesive. Use new bolts of at least the factory spec, to wit: Grade 5 if called for, or Grade 8. Stay at original factory...

I'll have to look at old pics, and I'm working the political situation in AZ these daze, so I've little time to fellowship on more Enlightened subjects such as Old Mopars. (Need $$ to keep my collection working!) Just buy a decent manual choke cable kit and attach the cable to the little hole...

If those are fr Moog, decent. Mevotech doesn't slice theirs, making it a trifle more difficult to install them. IDK who else slices theirs, or doesn't. The Mevotechs I put in my '68 are U.S.A. made, which was a pleasant surprise, though I've seen their rubber come from all over south Asia...

Yah, I might have done the same in your situation.

Might as well at that point I reckon. Mind you, had the rear drums still been swaged on, I too would have popped the $125 or so for the bit. I don't appreciate swaging drums.....

One Item, universally found in all the de-swaging threads I've seen: A drill press with the drum WELL stabilized is necessary to the job. Both the tungsten carbide cutting bits on the tool, and the drum itself require perfect lateral stability to prevent ruining the drum and breaking the...

I like SOME coolant volume in a radiator, but suggest the most crucial variable on a radiator is the radiant surface area. Now, if you refer to the AIR VOLUME at a given instant into which that radiant surface radiates, then yes, a greater volume of air (or any other fluid, liquid or gaseous)...

What do you have in 22" rads now? Curious and maybe interested.... I like the extra space the smaller radiator gives me up front, among other factors. Mind you, Gertrude stays nice and cool with my system. Cooling the tranny fluid separately BEFORE running it into the cooler at the bottom of...

...from JEGS, Speedway or such.... If your pinched for $, try this guy: 22" Mopar BIG BLOCK HD Aluminum Radiator His Al radiator worked very well for us here, until destroyed by a fraudulent c**t a couple years ago.... I'll keep Gertrude chill this summer, one way or another, be sure of it.

Swaging brake drums to the studs was originally done at the behest of the U.$. Armed Forces by the Big Three during WW2. Chrysler Corp, catering heavily to the Pentagon long after 1945, maintained that tradition, along with left hand threading the left hand side wheel studs. As a Private...

YES! I would seriously consider replacing the old vacuum controls for one of these systems entirely with modern, electronic thermostatic controls. Mind you, that's a little bit of engineering, but if I were afflicted with a '70s auto AC, that's the path I would take if much of the old system...

Yes, a pity about Stant. Motorad uses Palestinian slave labor. I don't buy that brand.

You can get sheet gasket rubber at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, AutoZone etc. I do as you have; Cut mine from 1/8" sheet for my /6 oil cap, and a PS pump reservoir also. Good scissors help when doing this.

Use the tool David Hill showed. I have one, and it works well. You can find idler arm specific tools on eBay if you look in the "vintage" tools. Modern crap seldom is cast of decent stuff.

I live in Tucson, and don't mind paying for shipping at reasonable rates. Can you get a decent estimate on that?

I can dig it. My '83 Dodge D150 sports a /6, yet scoots about town well enough. The /6 winds up and starts delivering decent power around 3800 rpm if you need it. 3000 rpm does nicely for me in town traffic. XLNT highway mileage.

Good! Yes, you MUST replace that seal when replacing the rest of the stuff.