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My 1969 Dart had separate lap and shoulder belts, so that must have been an early design. There was a separate latch for each on the seat side, as I recall. The shoulder belt had a clip at the top so you could keep it secured up there on the headliner. That is likely where most people left...

Removed my cluster to fix a few issues. One was that the odometer stopped working soon after I re-installed the speedometer's spinning magnet ~1992. I sent that off to a speedo shop in Bakersfield who re-bushed the shaft. It had been wobbly, letting the spinning magnet grab the aluminum cup...

Looks like "The RAM Man". No personal experience, but I frequent the FABO forum too and he is often recommended there, like one of the few who can rebuild old brake boosters. I think he also offers a master cylinder like 1980's Dodge trucks, but with a custom 15/16"D bore (unless mixing up...

Leaks from the rear of the valve covers have driven me crazy for years on my 1965 Newport. The problem appears that the heads don't have a flat sealing surface. It is a rough casting and drops away ~1/8" at the rear. I have negligible blow-by (new short-block & restored heads), so the...

My parent's 1955 Olds had such an "electric eye" on the dash. It used a side-on photomultiplier tube to sense light, which I know from academic research (see Hamamatsu), which became the biggest market for those components. But, the unit shown in the photo looks much different (smaller)...

The rubber coupler is termed "RAG joint". OE type are very expensive (>$100) if you can find them and the rubber may be old. Decades ago, when mine separated in my 65 Newport, I had a local gasket & rubber place in Atlanta cut me a disk w/ holes to use & has been fine since. I later saw the...

I think the purpose is for EV credits, which are more burdensome in Europe than even CA. Previously, FCA had announced spending $$$$ to buy credits from Tesla for Europe, so looks like this merger will nix that plan. I was a little happy when Daimler owned Chrysler since I have two 1980's M-B...

I would not term it "gets power". All the steering wheel switch does is ground the single wire from the horn relay's coil. Use a jumper wire to do that yourself (cover ears). Often there is a break where a jumper goes around the rubber isolator (RAG) on the steering column in the engine bay.

Did you say a store tested it and showed the alternator wasn't outputting, but the Vreg was the problem? For others, leave it in the car since best way to test it. Gazillions of posts in the A-body forum, esp by 67Dart273 who is ever patient w/ gomers. You can easily apply "full field" w/...

Thanks. Very useful. $23 was an amazing price, but none left. Search "switch 3502126" in ebay turns up many for $75-80, which is still a good price. I recall when Paddock sold them for $99 in the early 1990's. You are correct that many later van parts interchange w/ our 1960's Mopars. I...

Scarebird is the cheapest and simplest front disk conversion since keeps your spindles. Especially good if you recently rebuilt the front suspension. They use common GM or Toyota parts so should be easy future replacements. Factory disk parts are getting very rare. You will need to add an...

First, it is a myth that rust is like cancer and will inherently spread. The problem is that it provides porosity to allow moisture to reach bare steel. I agree w/ the above on eliminating as much loose rust as possible - down to shiny black steel, then a chemical that dissolves rust...

I'll just add that if the wild camshaft makes cruising at lower rpm tough, you might consider Rhoads variable lifters. Same PN for SB & BB, and I assume your RB. They work by leaking-down at lower rpm to give less valve lift, thus more efficiency and intake vacuum. At high rpm, they can't...

A few things to consider as you plot your path. Carburetors are increasingly expensive and difficult to repair. If you can find a rebuild kit cheap and the car is just an occasional driver, that might be the best path. My 1965 Newport came with a Bendix Stromberg WWC 2 bbl which gave 18 mpg...

I'll 5th the suggestion that an air space at the top of the radiator is normal. As example, for a time I would notice the coolant level in the radiator being down ~2" below the cap in our 2002 T&C 3.8L V-6 van, so would top it off. After repeating many times, I noticed the level in the coolant...

Pretty good for a beast. Most impressive to me is a youtube of a 1967 Barracuda w/ slant six engine that ran 9.09 sec 1/4-mile. A few little mods - turbo-charger, custom intake w/ MPFI, hot cam and big valves, tubbed trunk w/ thick sticky drag tires, ...

Such charging questions are asked and answered a gazillion times on the A-body forum. 67Dart273 is ever patient there. Make it simple. Disconnect everything from the 2 field terminals. Using a multimeter, verify that both terminals are isolated from ground. The only difference in 1960's...

Changed the timing set in my 1965 383 around 1996. I differ with the "pretty easy" statement in an early answer. You must remove the radiator to get room to pull the damper off w/ proper tool, remove water pump housing, and probably the oil pan to get a good seal, which likely means jacking...

When you get to restoring the AC, I would keep all the under-dash parts, plus that suction hose w/ expansion valve. I would use a Sanden compressor (smaller, more efficient, inexpensive) as most restorer do. You can buy brackets at Bouchillon Performance and others for your BB or RB engine...

Yes, the factory manual shows a custom tool for removal, but not needed (as are most special tools in the manual). I have removed many T-bars in my A & C body Mopars. I just pry-bar the Lower Control Arm backwards from the K-frame and the T-bar end pushes out the hex anchor (assuming you...