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Tried bleeding as the link sugested, nothing happens... I think I'll scrap the car.

Okidoki, gonna read that & see what I've missed... Pump looks like this: (what ever type that is)

So does anyone know a cure for why the oil don't pass thru the box??? As in the hoses & such are good...

Got the resistance cleared out, now to another problem... I don't get any powersteering at all! I've checked the pump with the pressure hose to spit in a glass container & the return hose in a bottle with oil & that worx fine, but when I put the return hose now coming from the box into the glass...

Due to "the rest of life" I haven't been able to get much done until just now & so I loosened the adjusting screw & I think it might have got a wee bit better, but the strange thing is that after almost one turn up with the Allen Key I couldn't back it up more... :( & there's still a bit resistance.

Done disconnecting shaft earlier, no difference, pitman arm next, exhaust is clear.

Sometimes, like now(!), I feel superstupid as I didn't think of that... Sure hope that's the problem, thanx!

I just tried it with the hoses disconnected & the engine off, it's half a turn from straight turning to the left. & it's seriously hard to steer but when that half turn on the wheel is done it goes fine again.

When I turn the steering wheel there's a strong(!) "brake" feeling in the wheel just about when I've started turning left, & when I keep turning it goes easy again... & yep; I've lifted the front clear from ground. At first I thought there might be dirt inside but why does it only apear at the...

In the 90's I had a -62 Newport as daily driver (all my cars have always been daily drivers, that's why I have any car at all) for some years & when I bought it the interior looked like crap big time & the clear plastic on the wheel was badly cracked so I just removed it. The button was also...

I've had Buick, Cadillacs, Chevies, Mustangs, Falcons, Fairlane, AMCs, Plymouths, Dodges, Imprial, Chryslers, IHs & Studebaker since the late 70's & even thou I still fancy some Chevies I know it's only because of me being charmed in the past & the over all quality of Chrysler corp & Studebaker...

-55 Studebaker since 11 years now & the -56 N.Y. since 2 years, either one depending on mood...

It's blue. (front whels are 70's b-body at the moment, that's why they sit so far in)

Can't get to edit the head but I was gonna write "Snowy south"! We do get snow in the swedish south & when that happens it's driving day no matter if you need going somewhere or not! So when I left I took a couple pix, it gets les clean snow about two yards ahead...

So why do they even bother selling teflon bushings? "Thinking" / suspecting that it is in one way or another aint helping much compared to knowlage, just saying...

Gonna order new rear bushing for my trans & I just saw that there are teflon ones available so I wonder what's best for daily driver use? Any ideas?

Ah so it don't matter what way the electric current moves thru the relay / flasher?

Looked up under today & there's NO(!) lamp or holder for it all, not even a cable! So now I'm confused; there was a 3-terminal flasher that worked before (dead now) but as I understand only two wires was connected to it so it ought to be easy to just plug in a 2-terminal flasher as in: a +cable...

This is the car's dashboard: (but I haven't looked up under yet)

A photo of the contact under the dashboard, where the flasher usually sits: So basicly I'm wondering how the wires should go into the flasher, I got this drawing from a guy but then I've heard it can be different depending on model & such (& the drawing aint specifically for a -56 MoPar either):