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First time I drove my fury (4w power drums). I locked it up hard just trying to stop. I had been driving a manual drum Coronet and even a 73 duster with power discs that worked much better than the fury

Room for turbo plumbing is another...:thumbsup: I've run manual disc for years. Yes you need to plant your foot when needed. I always found the oem system over boosted and touchy/twitchy. I even ran manual disc for a few years with the power pedal until I found a manual one. You do want...

No, just make sure you get the correct lug nuts for the rims, there are many different types

I run 17x8 4.5bs in the back and 17x7 3.5bs up front, 28.5" diameter tires on both in my 70.

Original post would indicate monorematics to me, they'll be softer. Wallowing even

On my 70 a 275/60 fits either on a 7" rim with 3.5bs or 8" rim with 4-4.25bs. 4.5 is too much, it's into the spring. I now have comparable sized 17" tires on 8's and I had to clearance the outer lips quite a bit

yes, and the scarebird kits and some others are junk and have no right being sold - I agree with Ross on some of that sentiment. I'd rather have the OEM setup than many of the kits on the market. And there are some excellent kits out there as well.

If it wasn't for the turbo sitting right there, I'd have a booster yes :thumbsup: I did move to the 15/16th bore or whatever, it didn't make a lot of difference.

I'm not perfectly happy with mine, but it is 73 discs up front, modern plastic/AL master cylinder, and the manual brake pedal. It's still a firm pedal with not a ton of travel. The power pedal did not give me near enough leverage to stop the car without both feet stomping and I'm no shrimp. I...

Ross, why are you saying switch to a power pedal? I started my manual discs with the original power pedal and it was terrible. Much better with a manual pedal.

7" rims work great for both tire sizes you want to run

I'm lost with what you're trying to say? The d100 stuff must be stronger, it's a truck. And no one's talking about mix and matching parts if I read correctly.

Would this be an upgrade with bigger ball joints? Are those d100 parts more available?

I would caution against chasing the 'dead in the middle' feeling first. That is a symptom of the tech in our cars - even at their best these boxes have some dead space compared to the modern cars we drive around the rest of the time. To me the fact that it then overacts is more telling than...

Ask around your local car clubs and such for someone who knows how to do old cars. Who knows how they set it but jacking it up shows they know nothing about how the old cars suspension works. You want the car at the ride height it'll be driven at

Rack and pinion would be an upgrade. To some getting rid of the big steering box and t bars has advantages. That would have made the turbos on mine easier and probably handle a lot better. Substantial work tho

I can't imagine any other part number would fit in the car so don't know. I never tried them with stock bars to have an opinion on whether they over control in that case. But...standard street shocks shouldn't behave like that, your condition sounds more like a 90/10 drag shock set to resist...

I did larger than oem t bars first and the Monroe's had a serious lack of ability to control. Kybs made big difference. Modern sport SUV tires then again made huge difference

They aren't the wallowing monroematics, that is correct

A must have with bigger t bars and or modern tires