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Did the Dexcool find an exit to the pavement, or the oil pan? Kevin

Neat, clean exhaust, no rattles and does not touch the axle like the Waldron tailpipe did. I’m disappointed because I wanted to like their system.

Car is finally here. After a couple/few delays, it's out front on the street. Need the charge my jump pack, and move it around back. I'll get the other 440 over to the house, and get that ready to stick in.

Thanks - I have several cores, plus 2 rebuilt units sitting in boxes, one of which is sitting on the bench waiting for installation. I will likely be doing the drain and refill the sump option.

Green bearings are the sealed units, no adjusting required. Kevin

This is a 1966-70 B & C-Body Front Arm Rest Bezel. #2589583. I'm not sure if it will work on other years and models. It is 13" long & 3 3/8" wide, and is in good driver quality condition with no cracks or chips. $15.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping.

Not sure what they are but got some Timkins

This is a 1966 to 1972 Big Block Left Side Motor Mount & Bracket. It is used, but in good condition. $20.00. Local pickup or buyer pays shipping.

I'm impressed!!! Over 24 hours and nobody has gone off on a Green bearings are dangerous tangent... lol Kevin

Any blow by? If the machine shop did a poor job honing it or the cylinder finish isn't compatible with the ring choice, the rings might not seat. Depending on the ring material, if the engine didn't fire immediately the first time, it can compromise seating. That tends to fly in the face of no...

I messaged with the guy the night he listed it for sale. He said he had someone else who called before me, but said, "I was second in line". I said okay just let me know. Now I just got notification the price has been raised $1,000. Eh, I shouldn't be buying anything else anyways.

Success! I need to do the pitman arm and idler arm tomorrow and fine tune the brakes but the car now drives without howling!

All cylinders indicate leakage at the rings into the crankcase. I was thinking it would use oil or smoke, it doesn't.

Yes.

I recall reading somewhere that if you drain the R12 oil out and refill the sump with the correct amount of 134a type oil, (PAG?) any residual will mix in and not fight with 134a, and it's also backwards compatible with R12 or any of the so called equivalents. If you can find another good RV2...

It's been hot here, 90+ everyday. The humidity is the killer though...

Hello , I wanted to start a private conversation with a member about parts listed for sale and it says I've reached my limit for private conversations ?? I don't even have any going on . What am I doing wrong ? Thanks , Hap .

But it's a dry heat... Yeah, like being broiled is better than being boiled! Lol Kevin

If you followed the instructions to the letter, with those results, you should hear air blasting out either the exhaust, intake or the crankcase, ie oil fill or dipstick tube. Ideally, engine should be warm. It should be at verified TDC, using a positive stop. The indicator on the balancer...

They say that you want to see below 20% pressure difference. A fresh engine should be closer to 10% I'd think. Your numbers are generally bad I'd say. Did you measure each cylinder at TDC?