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Give me a few... i will dig them out and send you some pix.... best to start a private conversation where you can send me your email address. That way i can send bigger, clearer pix. Im in Northern Ohio along Lake Erie, also very close to i80 and i90.

Unrelated, but interesting none the less. I have a Corvair that i last put fuel in the tank no less than 15 years ago. The car is old obviously, the carbs are new 20 years ago and then bolted on the car and used very few miles ( same gas as today ). I jump started it and it ran a few weeks...

Any pix or info on what you are looking for..... i tried to Google for info, but the internet fought me tooth and nail. I have an old retrofit under dash unit i dont plan to use.

I have a pair of 1959 413HP heads... the first? big intake valve heads with 2.08/1.60s. Casting number for those is 1851509. $100 plus shipping....or if you travel I80/90 we can work it out cheaper. If you are interested, ill get you pix.

So, as factory new, or like new, you could easily get away with nothing but the paper. As you said, you are going to want to use the RTV at corners. Most folks who dress a paper gasket will use High-Tack, CopperCoat or even Permatex on the cover, but not the block.....this would make any...

Members car.... For Sale - 1972 Monaco Wagon 3 row

Yep

Click on your link with a phone or tablet....you can zoom right in and see it clearly.

The pair i thought were those early castings turned out to be 1959 413HP heads... the first? big intake valve heads with 2.08/1.60s. Casting number for those is 1851509. Looks like I have NO 1961 castings. Sorry

I think i have a pair. I will have to look. They would be take-offs, never worked on. Price range??

WAG..... pre OBD1 diagnostic connector??

You put dye in. I assume youve run it for a few days..... is the dye not giving a clue whats leaking?? If not, try using the blacklight in the spot in the driveway where condensation has dripped from the evaporator.... it may help clue you in before tearing into the heater box, maybe for no...

His questions show hes greener than a pine tree. Not that theres anything wrong with that.....we all started somewhere.

The bottom end of a good or new 361/383 will happily do 5k. A motor in crappy condition with a half clogged oil pickup will spin a rod bearing! If it makes power to 5k, id do it....if the powers falling off by 5k, then dont.....cuz its not doing anything for you at that point.

I wouldnt even attempt to lighten it....if you`re building a full on race car, you wouldnt be asking questions here. Just consider some bolt on mods.... cam, converter and tall rear gears.....go have fun. Then someone can change it back if you get bored with it.

2991 looks like the correct list number, as youve said....its an AFB.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/1976-78-400-engine-w-727-trans.292896/ https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/915-hp-heads.289279/

You could solve a whole lot of these issues with potential by starting out with a 400 (biggest stock bore)

I would call A&A in indiana. Pat Blais is a good choice too. I think 62,3,4 and 5 are the same?? Whats the casting number on it?

I don't think you'll find any jobbers pushing matched pairs anymore. If I were in your shoes, I'd repace them. However, I would buy two. put them on and run them for a short time and then check them for a match with a Browning belt tension checker.....if they are both within spec, and...