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I do agree w/ @Big_John that burned clutches are very likely the case given your aliments description. A pressure test would confirm this. To adjust the bands would be a wasted effort at this time. A though rebuild w/ new seals, bushings, front pump and torque convertor will cover all the bases...

This is a Set Of 16 OEM Small Block Pushrods. They are original, not china knockoffs. They came off of a 1972 340, but should work with most small block Mopar LA engines. They are straight, and in good condition, but could use a cleanup. $25.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping.

Sounds like gas igniting in the carb. If you take the air cleaner off do you see a flame? A bad intake valve will do this. A cracked distributor cap or two crossed plug wires, the vacuum advance not operating (bad v.a. diaphragm, line disconnected from under carb or intake manifold or vacuum...

This is a Complete Set Of 34 OEM Big Block Cylinder Head Bolts, and 8 intake bolts. They are original, not china knockoffs, and are in very good used condition. Just could use a cleanup. I know there are people out there who say you must buy new ARP when rebuilding an engine. All I can tell...

This is a Set Of 16 OEM Pre 1968 RB Pushrods. They are original, not china knockoffs. They fit the 1967 and earlier 413, 426w, and 440 engines.They are straight, and in good condition, but could use a cleanup. $25.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping.

Sounds bad. But! There is an exterior adjustment bolt with a locknut for the low-reverse band. It’s on the passenger side. Hopefully it’s just loosened. It requires a very specific torque (in inch-pounds if I recall) before the locknut is set.

This is a OEM 440 11 3/4" Flex Plate W/Bolts. It is original, not a china knockoff. It came out of a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T with a 440hp engine. It is in good condition, just could use a cleanup. The six original attaching bolts to the crankshaft are included. $25.00. Local pickup, or buyer...

Sounds like water, or moisture in the fuel, or condensation under distributor cap

this is why I asked. i knew people would come up better ideas then the ONE floating around my three brain cells....3 leftover from my 20s Thanks

Have a new drain plug ready to go in with a new seal.

When it is "struggling" to move over bumps is the engine reving up and the car isn't moving like it should or is the engine struggling?

Sounds good to me... I'll give it a try. Thanks.

No vacuum lines to a 727 (or a 904 for that matter) No real differences for this discussion. Basically the bell housing is the big difference. It sounds like the trans is slipping badly. First thing is check the level. Engine on, idling in neutral. Should be at the "Add" or a touch above...

Jack the back way up. The see if you can remove the plug without losing fluid. I'd put an o-ring or a rubber washer on the plug.

sorry I know my lack of info is annoying but essentially besides a rebuild what could the tranny need? Has all gears btw and goes into gear when warmer. Could it just be the nuetral start?

Car was restored. Been told either 40 or 60k on trannt, body is 110k

I had similar issues in the past. It sounds to me like a float bowl sticking or possibly a bowl vent or as stated earlier a weak fuel pump. I think your issue is fuel related. Good luck, I struggled with my 383 Chrysler for months before I finally straightened it out. Frustrating but worth it...

Was and is your kick down linkage installed and adjusted correctly? Trans fluid is up to correct level when checked in neutral and at operating temp? 727 is a 727, just a few bands and springs from a heavy duty to regular and the bell housing bolt pattern for small and big block. What colour is...

Hey Folks, I asked a couple weeks ago about my 65 Newport. It was at my friends body for about a month. He was having a lot of trouble starting it. Got the car back and it does have something wrong with it. Hard cold starting, once running it's OK. However now it has a popping type noise...