Search results for query: *

Thanks for checking.

Do you have any 14" ones like in the upper left?

The way those early heat riser weights were designed, they were offset so that the weight of the weight would use gravity to help open the valve should the spring fail or shaft/bushing get a bit sticky. It was usually a moot point later on when the shaft would seize up after a few years.

I must be mentally challenged....I thought this thread was about a neutral safety issue. If so, '68 was a split year. Early had just a single wire safety switch where later used the 3 wire switch which also included the backup lights. The center terminal on that switch was the neutral safety...

Assuming your rear axle assembly is stock, it could have 11 X 2", 11 X 2 1/2", or 11 X 3" rear brakes. It was based mainly on engine size and the use the vehicle was made to do. Lower horsepower cars usually had the smaller brakes and high horsepower and many station wagons had the big ones, as...

I don't know if it will help or not, but, I show the factory spring number as 2260789 and the hose being 2534613.

Well, stand by Colorado. You're not far behind with some of the whacky people in your state too.

I doubt such a small sampling of VIN's and fender tags would prove or disprove how rare something is. More like mental masterbation to me, but, ok. we all have our quirks or we wouldn't be Mopar owners! :lol:

Hey, at least these guys have some skills.....unlike most of our young people. Make be cringe seeing them work without a respirator or even some simple safety glasses. If you notice, that wasn't a matched pair for one wheel, as there wasn't a long and short shoe! :lol:

Is there someone who collects that info? What use would it be put to?

Put a paint dab on the threads and matching area of the nut to see if the adjusting bolt is moving on you. If not, and the rest of the suspension is in order, replace the torsion bars as it looks like the questionable one is bad and may break on you.....not fun if you're going freeway speed!

If those were on my car, I'd just put the drum back on, run it for another year, and take another look then. Naturally, if you feel something off in the mean time, pull and look then, but, I've run cracked linings before and never had one fail on a bonded shoe. Riveted ones are a different...

I'm not convinced that it's heat related. I've had brand new ones leak their potting resin inside their sealed box. I believe it's more of a chemical breakdown thing. Either way, it doesn't seem to affect whether they work or not. I've had leakers that worked great for years, if not...

All the brackets and pulleys are different between A/C and non-A/C. Get a complete matching set as trying to mix and match doesn't usually end well. Usually the P/S can swap over if you get the correct crank pulley, but the rest can't be re-used. Diameters and offsets are all different. Even the...

Looks good to me.

The correct ones for a '71 Dodge C-body would be the 2944089 Stainless red line ones.

Check that lower pot coupler for play. It looks suspect to me. Shaking while braking is usually a brake drum/rotor with too much run-out. It can be caused by them being warped, or even a bent or improperly installed wheel putting a strain on it.

I used to have one of those '73 Imperials. It had the factory burglar alarm system too. Man that car had some wiring and plumbing!

Also, I have Q9 as being power antenna and L9 as being power vent windows. Maybe the OP can verify that also.

Just personal research. I owned an all Mopar wrecking yard for 32 years, collected lots of build sheets and compared them to what the car had to determine what the code meant. I've compared it with a few other guides, including GG's, and most of my codes seem to jibe with them.