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Thanks! Like I said; old trick but still useful..:)

Thanks Welder guy! About contact clue, we just sprayed clue only back of the fabric, all fabric not only edges, important is time window when you put the fabric over the surface, not too tacky but enough to stick in place . That time can vary depending on temperature, clue and so on.. testing...

Helping my friend with -51 (?) Packard 400 . Inside door parts needed some special tricks to imitate original panels. We used some window net fabric to imitate leather look a like. Base coat is like medium dark gray metallic and after that we sprayed bright aluminium through this net fabric...

800 millimetres/31.5 inches, an other one is more stiff and just a little flexible and the other one is more flexible. I think that's long enough .Time to time in my day job I had to do some special sanding blocks to some specific job so there's nothing new...:)

Thanks Chris, you know this job . Me and good friend of mine Antti used to do this for"fun" when we're a little bit younger...we used to have garage with our friends and we had there a spray booth and we used that a lot! One most demanding paint job was friends -63 black Lincoln.. you can...

Getting there, panel by panel. I want to make surface as smooth as possible before next step, very thin layer over all surfaces, sanding and then Evercoat Slick Sand and then blocking.. and then sanding primer...so sanding.. and then.. sanding.. and.. after that.. some sanding... quality time...

Yes, I have good vendor for real "flame" walnut veneer, but like Julian said it's almost impossible to bend to tight corners. Flat surface is easy , just glued over thin aluminium and cut with CNC , water jet cutter or laser and then lacquered, but tight corners you need to glued veneer in...

Thank you Sir, again! About metal ,I'm learning but about painting, okay, that's something what I have done a little in past 40 years..:)..but there's always something to learn too!

Small update , somehow I destroyed this piece of plastic what's inside the door lock but luckily I had white polyethylene and that's good material for new one. Notice preload in engine compartment and inside the car, idea is simulate the weight of mechanical and other parts, hope this keep caps...

A little difficult to measure but here you go, Buick first.. Imperial is bare metal, Buick with lite coat of zinc paint, hope this helps..

Beautiful work Matt!

These are bearings what I used, like The_ Eagles_Nest said I think also that -72/-73 bearings are same, at least Rockauto give same numbers for both years.

Thank you Sir!:) . Soon will be body work started...

Little progress.. front suspension preassembled new front brakes with Buick rotors ( if interested look at "Imperial rotors" thread ). New brake lines with original springs. Stub frame going its place , finally..:) Regards, Mika

Little update guys, about this Buick rotors question, I think this could work. This is test with Raybestos 5006R rotors. I have -72 spindles and K-H brakes from Murray Park, right side rotor is ok but left is done, inner surface is badly damaged. So, I ordered parts and let the show begin...

Thanks again and good point that rubber parts question, I should ask that before ordering parts. But how about other rubber parts like front disk caliper and rear brake cylinders rubber parts, how can you know can you use silicone brake fluid?? One question leads to another... Regards, Mika

Thanks Jeff, and yes, -69 FSM didn't make a difference with these parts between Budd and K-H brakes. -69 they start with Budd but later that year they change to Kelsey-Hayes. So I'm gonna order repair kits...

..what can I say....just perfect, like a big piece of glass. Absolutely beautiful!

...we just can't wait!:lol:

Maybe stupid question but, when changing from 4 piston Budd brakes to Kelsey-Hayes type one piston brakes, are the other parts still same? Budd System has tee part with brake warning switch ( looks like very similar with B body) and Kelsey-Hayes made metering valve, that's it no other parts...