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Installing a new sending unit did the trick. Thanks everybody for your help!

@live4theking Maybe I should have ordered two just in case! :-)

Sure enough, the oil pressure is reading 20psi at idle with an external gauge. I've ordered a new sending unit hoping that will fix the problem.

Thanks for the info! Perfect! I don't remember from the top of my head exactly what NPT thread is on my gauge, but I'm guessing it will fit one or the other.

Thank you everybody! Step one will be to reclaim my wayward pressure gauge and take a good reading. I'm assuming the thread is NPT, right? Regarding oil, I'm in the South and I've been using 15/40 in the summer and 10/30 in the winter, so based on the comments above I'm not too far off in that...

Thanks @CBODY67 ! I will check the pressure, I left my pressure gauge at another place but will grab it when I go back there next week. I read somewhere (this forum?) that 15-20 psi at idle is OK. Does that sound correct? I'm going to do oil and filter this weekend anyway to see if there's any...

My -66 New Yorker has been sitting for about three weeks. When I started it today the oil pressure lamp won't come off, so I immediately cut the engine. The oil looks clean, level is correct, and the oil and filter have less than 200 miles on them. The last thing I want to do is drop the oil...

I'm very happy with the KYB shocks front and rear on my New Yorker. The ride feels more "modern" than anything else I tried, with crisp handling using the stock torsion bars. It's a -66 so it's a bit older than your car, though. They were dirt cheap from Rockauto.

413, I agree it's absolutely not funny from that perspective. I drive a big old diesel truck to get things done at the farm, and no, it hasn't been funny at all lately, nor has filling up the tractor. And by the way, Shell is not alone taking advantage of the situation - I'm at a loss coming up...

> With the prices off the charts now the big guys are staying competitive with the quicky marts so I've run several tankfuls in my '18 F150 and the computer says I've increased my mileage by 2 mpg... So the high gas prices are actually good in some tiny, minuscule, microscopic way, ha ha! :)

Cbody67, Wow that makes a lot of sense and it explains the mystery - at least to me - of why ethanol has remained in the gasoline for so long even in the oil-producing/refining states. Thank you for explaining that. Always follow the money. Thankfully, where I live 93 octane ethanol free is...

> One of the stupidest things that an industry has done in a long time! Ethanol has been in our gas for a very long time (the US became the world's largest producer of ethanol fuel back in the Bush administration!) so I don't think it's going away any time soon in spite of all the talk...

Lead additive is not a substitute for good valve guides and seats. I'm with Big John and detmatt, ditch that garbage. Detmatt, how much do you put in a tank? Do you have to adjust fuel/air mixture etc? Can you elaborate a little? I use ethanol free in all my engines big or small that don't see...

Thanks Gerald - I will check out the fuse block. If all looks good I will smile, keep my fingers crossed and enjoy the driving season.

Here's an update: After cutting out the "creative" wiring, returning to factory spec and splicing in a proper fusible link I cannot get the car to fail again no matter how hard I try. OK, I probably should be happy about that, but it makes me a little nervous: I'm the kind of person who likes...

Thanks for all your thoughtful responses! Lots of interesting thoughts to mull over. Not sure what a c-body novice would do without this forum.

Thanks Ross, Yes, I would like to get the car's electrical system close to original spec, with the addition of the ammeter and bulkhead fixes. They're on my to-do list.

Update: As it turns out a previous owner has done some very creative wiring to the car. Thus, no fusible link at the firewall. After lots of head-scratching and wire-tracing I figured out that the previous owner had replaced the fusible link with a 30 Amp inline fuse, which had completely melted...

Thanks for all the insightful replies! Very helpful! I will let you know what I find.

Thank you so much for the responses! Question: If it turns out to be a blown fusible link, is there a particular amp/gauge/etc. I should shop for, or are they one size fits all for all Mopars?