Give us a pic of that engine bay with a vette motor in it.. Curious to see that. As far as you know, was there a lot of modification done to make it fit? I assume there is a GM TH-something behind it as well?
For the cognoscente, did not Chrysler design their leaf springs to be closer to flat for better drive-ability in corners and to resist sway? I know in the 60s they did, not sure what they did in 72. I see OP does have a little bit of arch there towards the axle but I cannot tell if the rear...
Kids and women alike usually say "It's sooo big."
I recently picked up an 87 Fifth Ave though and for some reason young people LOVE that car. Especially when they see the tufted leather interior.
A couple of funny ones (not kid comments):
I was at a traffic light taking a left. Traffic from...
Yes they pop off. Just be gentle. You'll have to remove door handles, window cranks etc.. They have tools for this job but... are you trying to take panel off with the door closed? That is a diff animal then. Will it open from inside?
Is it pulling to one side when braking? Those temps are close to normal but the pass side sounds like it is dragging a little bit. I would manually adjust it.
When you say "don't seem to have gas squirting" is that confirmed? Is the carb not squirting when you look straight at it cold? How many pumps are you giving it? Was it rebuilt recently? If it starts and runs then there is gas enough in the carb to take it from there after you prime it. Maybe...
That def sounds electrical.. So.. if it were me.. I would start it (if it will start) and shake the key/tap the column. If no change check battery posts and cables (good ground?) then connections to coil etc.. Maybe the cap has a clip off/broken? Look for stupid **** too. Sometimes spade...
Get it back to the point when it was running and start there. If you're changing parts before confirming the problem (like the distributor swap), you are muddling the issue and making way more work for yourself. Start over with the parts that worked then troubleshoot. Nice heater valve btw :)
Had this issue on an M body and the solution was to pull a gentle vacuum on the fuel line with a hand operated vac canister until fuel came up. Fuel lines were all checked, it just needed some help. Started right up every time after that.
What did you end up finding out?
You're going to have to get under there to get a better idea. Can only speculate so much. I would get it up on jack stands and reproduce the problem. You, or your helper can be underneath checking things out. Have you tried putting it in neutral and then revving to 2k or so to see if the noise...
I assume you are removing the line at the carburetor and seeing fuel come out? If so, then yes, you may still have something going on in the carb.. a few things:
-How was the engine running before the carb rebuild?
-Did you soak the carb body? Was there a lot of gunk in it?
-Old fuel can be...
Have you touched the wires after cranking to see if they are warm? That might be an indication of bad connection to ground or to battery. Pull the plugs and crank it to see what happens. Let the cylinders clear and see what happens. If it still cranks slow I'd say you have an electrical problem...