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I think it's already tied open based on the behaviour when cold vs warm. The stumble when in gear at idle only happens 'sometimes' and it's more like the RPM just drops to the point where it wants to stall rather than going irregular. I've been unable to work out any guaranteed way to repeat...

The carb is brand new as far as I can tell, I think it was "buy it, fit it, it starts - ok done" One of those Edelbrock Thunder series. I'll be replacing it with an auto choke model next year so at least it's in good enough shape to resell later.

I'm thinking the carb is probably all kinds of incorrectly set up - once warm (they put a manual choke one on a car that needs an auto) it behaves normally but sometimes any amount of load (say, brakes on and putting in drive) makes it stumble badly. It also doesn't have the power I'd expect...

So yes, it was low - I put another 1.5 pints in and the level is about 25% over the low mark when fully warmed up in neutral. Strange thing the gearbox makes quite a hard shift now, but with the brake held switching through the gears doesn't seem make it want to stall as much. Doesn't seem to...

This is the exact procedure I followed, although it was idling for about 30 minutes and then had a 10 minute drive up & down the road, then left idling again & checked. Adding just over a pint left me with the same thing I had when I started, a small bead of oil about 1cm long on the twist in...

Thanks, they must not have filled it properly when it was rebuilt & fitted in that case - there's nowhere for the fluid to have actually gone, that whole transmission case is clean enough to eat food on.

Yeah I did that - level & warmed up, and in neutral. Can't tell if the oil is genuinely still low after adding a pint, or if its just running down the dipstick faster than I can pull it out.

So here's my problem - I checked the transmission fluid last week and I was seeing a bead of oil just on the twisted end of the dipstick. This was after warming the car up, shifting through the gears a few times and leaving it idling in neutral. I took this to mean the level was low - so I...

Seems to be the most recent thread for this question - I've spent hours with google just coming up with lots of conflicting opinions and advice. 727 Torqueflite, is a semi synthetic dexron III the way to go, or a fully synthetic III or even VI?

The car will be living at a local temperature/humidity controlled secure facility, and taken out for a drive every 2-3 weeks minimum, until the road salting season starts. Once the salt goes down at the first sign of a minor frost (they love that stuff here because people are idiots), it's...

Engine totally rebuilt within the last few years, it's in good shape right now and it's the ethanol I'm more worried about!

So it seems like I'll be picking my new Fury up next week - I live in the UK and the best fuel we have is generally Shell V-Power, which is supposed to be 99 RON. For a 1969 383 4 barrel, what kind of additives if any should I look at adding to look after the engine - would this one do the...