Search results for query: *

I'm not sure about the '69, but everything I've worked on, the pink wire is 12+ and the yellow is connected to ground. Unlike most of the car wiring, the yellow ground connection is the one that the door switches and the headlight switch interrupt to turn the light off.

I'm assuming that a '63 is set up similar to a '65. Should be 2 studs on the starter with wires connected. The big wire comes straight from the battery to the big stud and then goes off to the starter relay and then on into the car to power everything. That provides the power to spin the...

The factory wiring runs basically all the power from the alternator to the battery through the bulkhead connector, the ammeter and then back through the bulkhead. The power for everything except the starter and the horn tees off of this wire between the bulkhead and the ammeter. This sets up 2...

Probably not the problem here, but one other thing to think about is something intermittent drawing a lot of current. I had a drive where I noticed the meter jumping up for a short period every minute or two. Finally figured out that a power window switch was stuck. Window went all the way...

Do you have one of those test lights with the probe on the end and a wire with a clip? 1. Hold the clip to the negative post on the battery and touch the probe to the positive post. If it lights, then the battery is good. 2. Clip to the actual end of the negative battery cable and touch...

Not sure about the other 3 years, but the '65 bulkhead connector is different. Only 2 plugs & the red and black ammeter wires are screwed to individual buss bars. A trick that helped me with the wiring diragram was to scan it and then use MS paint (or similar) to color the lines to match the...

I agree with Big John that a grounding issue is likely, but four questions. 1. Is it a problem only with the headlights on, or does turning just the parking lights on cause it as well? My gut feeling is the issue is the tailight part of the circuit that is causing the issue rather than the...

I had my cluster out this spring, and after cleaning up the ammeter studs, used double nuts to fasten it to the circuit board and then double nuts to attach the red and black wires when I reinstalled the cluster.

I don't have a Dodge FSM, but I'm guessing that the wire colors are the same as the '64 Chrysler FSM. V-1 - Pink - This is the 12 volts coming from the ignition switch to the wiper switch. V-3 - Black w Tracer - This is the power out to the wipers for normal operation. V-6 - Dark Blue - This...

Maybe you know this, but the idiot lights ground through the sending unit, not the housing of the cluster, so to test you need to apply ground and power to the correct 2 pins in the connector. I've also had issues with some corrosion on the circuit board so the little ears on the plastic bulb...

This is just a guess, but if that yellow wire just loops back in the connector, then I suspect it is to bypass the seatbelt interlock system. I remember doing something similar on my '74 Dart.

According to the Fuse Specification section: Cavity 2 20 Amp Tail Lamps Side Marker Lamps Park & Turn Signal Lamps License Lamps Instrument Cluster Lamps (also in Cavity 1) Clock Cigarette Lighter Cavity 3 20 Amp Stop Lamps Ignition Switch Lamp & Delay Relay Dome Lamp Rear Dome Lamp (wagons)...

I don't have a '67 diagram handy, but in '65 the windows are powered from the battery side of the ammeter and everything else feeds off the wire between the alternator and the ammeter. So, if the ammeter went bad, the black wire came loose from that side of the ammeter or the main splice in...

You say the turn signals blink once or twice and then stop. At that point are the turn signal lights on but not blinking, or are they off?

First of all, let's clarify. I assume you mean the lights for the speedometer & other gauges. Is that correct? They are supposed to light up when the parking lights or headlights are on. The brightness is controlled by turning the knob on the light switch. That adjusts a rheostat inside...

Do the hot/cold lights and the parking brake light work? Those share the power feed with the oil light.

The '65 version is much better than the '66 and later. Is it as good as solid wire with no connectors, probably not, but I will say that on mine, which had all sorts of electrical fun other places, the bulkhead was fine. You definitely do want to check that the two ring terminals where the...

If you don't have the Factory Service Manual, it can be downloaded here Service Manuals – MyMopar Looks like the power for the dash lights comes from the headlight switch, through the separate dimmer (I think its a thumbwheel on your car?) to the fusebox (it should be the fuse on the end, I'm...

Ok, that does make the path harder to figure out, but I still suspect a missing ground is allowing power to backfeed into the other circuit somehow. Just to clarify, are your exterior park/turn signal & tail/brake/turn bulbs LEDs? If so, it sounds like you should check to see if the hazard...

I'm not sure exactly what you've got happening here, but I'm betting there is a missing ground somewhere. The 1157 type bulbs in the front parking/turn lights & the rear tail/stop/turn lights have hot feeds from 2 different circuits that share a ground. With a missing ground, that can back...