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OK, this might not be "concours correct", but I've run into this problem and this is how I fixed it. "Basically" you turn your distributor clockwise "one spark plug wire's worth on the cap". Then you move each spark plug wire over one spot. Lastly, you re-time the engine since you probably...

Does anyone recognize this under-hood light or know anything about it? Is it factory or aftermarket? THANKS!

I went the bypass the ammeter, but leave it hooked up route as bronze turbine mentions. It was easy and I've had no issue. My ammeter "kinda" works. It's not accurate at all, but I can see a big charge or big drain somewhat. It would tell me if my alternator went out for sure

One good/cheap/easy test would be to remove the pink wire off of the brake pedal brake switch & run a hot wire to it (jumper wire from the battery or other 12V source). You can also check to see if that pink wire has a constant 12-volts (key on or off, it should always be hot). Oh yeah, and...

Pictures would help. A very quick search showed your turn signal switch should be for/from a 67-69 New Yorker or Newport w/o tilt wheel and they run about $100. Are you sure you got shipped the correct part? You have the original steering column, right?

Yeah, google is very useful BUT all you really get is a massive list of posts that takes hours to weed through. Then, you have to figure out who knows what they're talking about & who doesn't. There is a TON of wrong information on the internet.

cbody67 put it very well. I would set the 1100rpm cruise just like base timing, then run some tests (same day, same load of fuel, etc.). Dial up the 1100rpm cruise advance until it starts to ping up a gradual hill (or something like that), then back it off maybe 2*. My 2-cents.

You know, this is STILL popular. The new "rule of thumb" is about 34-36 degrees total advance with the vacuum advance disconnected...….the exact way I have my nitrous Roadrunner with 3.91 gears set up. If I was worried about mileage, I wouldn't be running a big block (haha). I get maybe 6mpg...

Beautiful car!

OK, sorry if I go over stuff that you already know, but I will try to break this down while adding some general comments (first) about your situation. a. You have a vacuum leak...no doubt. In a smog-era, basically stock 360 you should have maybe 15-18"Hg vacuum....maybe even 20" if a fresh...

I've run into this before. All you need to do is move each spark plug wire over one position on the distributor cap. Then rotate the distributor "one plug wire's worth". It's probably a good idea to set the engine at TDC on #1 firing before you do this to have a good point of reference, then...

That is a good idea. You can find that in music stores since I believe it is "intended" to clean guitar pickups & keyboard electrical connections.

Sorry, I checked also and there is no '67 C-body dash harness available. You may have to repair what you already have.

Yes, you have a short somewhere. The bulkhead connectors are pretty strong. When you plug the bulkhead connectors back in, you have to watch out that some of the wires don't "slip backwards" and make a bad connection. For most of the wires, you can push them forward with a tiny screw driver...

I believe Mopar used that same connector on most vehicles up until at least the late 70's. You may have some different colored wires or something.

First, I will say that I'm a b-body guy, so take this for what it's worth. "Technically" I don't think you have to remove anything to install the wiring harness, but I think it would be difficult at best. You probably could just remove the gage cluster & maybe the glove box so you can get...

Here's my 2-cents. The brake light switch, above the brake pedal, which will contact the "arm" of the brake pedal is most likely your problem like 300rag said. It's usually white, about 2" long and "way up in there" on a bracket near the brake pedal "arm" with 2 or 3 wires running to it. It...