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Adding a Booster will also require a different size master brake cylinder. Would be best to exchange that as a complete bundle together with the rebuild booster from the donor car.

We should all raise a fund and paying the guy and his expenses for detailing that all out and bringing this topic to a final conclusion.

Here is a good picture about clearance to the stock manifold providing a rough idea how it will work with headers. PS. I forget about the fact that there is still a rubber in place above the solid universal joint providing insulation as well as enough of a length compensation.

For sure the OEM style rubber insulated coupling made and still makes sense to absorbe vibrations. The engineers would not have spend there time on it without any reason. So far I drove my 66‘ 300 for about 700mls. Since installing the Borgeson Box with the „solid“ universal coupling and I can...

I wish I had taken some measurements of both parts to compare dimensions and weight as long as laying on the bench. Borgeson Homepage states it has a 10# ( pounds?) weight decrease and „drastically header clearance increase“ . No dimension found so far. Steering gear box weight is 25 lbs.

I found this picture in a Hot Rod Magazin article and fabricated a copy of it. Same principle, works great without damaging T-bar surface.

I want to complete the conversion story with some details of the Master and Booster combo and the required brake pedal modification. My 33 300 was originally equipped with a single diaphragm power booster. I did not want to keep it, because it was old, worn and I learned from this forum it will...

Update May 23rd. To go ahead with conversion I wanted to make the Magnums fit. The long caliper bolts had interference with the weld of the rim and the hub cap with the center bore of the rim. The hub cap had lots of material, so it could be machined to a smaller diameter. The bolts have been...

My 66‘ 300 stood on 15 x 7“ Magnum 500. I wanted to keep them as well. Once I did the first trial to put them on the hub, I noticed the magnums touched the calipers. With the center caps mounted, the wheel stucks on them as well before sitting flat on the hub mounting surface. Minimum 1/2“...

Update. That was somewhen in May 2018. After finishing the preparation of all components, assembly starts. This is always the funny part of the work, when everything is clean. I preferred to paint the parts black, instead of the shiny zinc look.

Hello Dave, I totally agree. With my today’s knowledge I would most likely go with stock components as well. I have know driven the car with this Brake Kit for about 3 month and it works fine so far. I will make a service and check all bolt tourques very soon in the winter season brake just to...

Whith all the ball joints separated, the components were cleaned up for later sand blasting and painting. The brake drum was removed to disassemble the brake anchor plate from the Spindel. Spindel was also cleaned up, checked and painted. Besides the brake conversion, all the bushings were...

With the complete unit on the bench it is much easier to separate the lower and upper tapered ball joint studs from the spindels. The upper once came out easily with a simple separator tool as shown here in the forum several times. The lower ball joint stud was so thighs,that I need to buy a...

My 66‘ 300 came with OE power booster 4 wheel drums and a single brake cuircuit. The MP Brake Legend Series Kit came with 11“ x 1“ rotors, billet Aluminium hubs, single piston cast iron calipers, all bearings, brake hose and laser cutted steel adapter plates as well as a dual master cylinder...

So I will Open a new thread to Share some Information and pics on my front drum to disc conversion with a MP Brake Kit. The desicion for this particular Kit was taken 2 years ago. I was planing a front end rebuild and already had collected all required Parts. I thought that would be the right...

I recently did a 1966 300 conversion with a Master Power Brake Legendary Series Kit on my car. If somebody is interested on some pics and experience on this excerise, I would start a new Topic for that. Frank.

PS: I have also switched to the borgeson coupling which makes a big difference in centerfeel without any sloppy feeling. It just feels right now on the Autobahn.

That is a comparison picture of Borgeson and oem Part. The Borgeson Box is smaller and light whigt compared to the OE Box. It has a quicker Ratio (approximativ. half a Turn less lock to lock). It has no noticable lash and requires slightly higher Steering effort. This swap is still not like a...

If it is more than just adjusting the ride hight, like lowering the car about 2 Inches, I would also loosen the pivot shaft nuts in the front of the crossmember to allow the pivot shaft to rotate in its seat. Otherwise the rubber bushing gets twistet too much over time and will worn out very...